The Extension Agent's

    Handbook for Emergency Preparation and Response



		   A Special Project
			   by
	  Texas Agricultural Extension Service
			  and
	  Hazard Reduction and Recovery Center

		with funding provided by
     Extension Service-United States Department of Agriculture



     Dr. D. L. Bilbo                               Jay Todd
    Project Director                          Project Associate

			 Introduction

The Extension Agent's Handbook for Disaster Preparedness and Response
can be a valuable response tool for you, the Extension agent, in times
of emergency or as an aid in preparedness education activities.  The
Handbook is divided into two parts to provide the information you need
in an easy-to-use format.  The first section of the Handbook, General
Family Preparedness, provides basic information you may need to access
quickly in any disaster or emergency situation.  It also may be used as
a preparedness education tool for the public.

The second section of the Handbook covers 10 disaster specific
situations.  For the purposes of this manual, a disaster is any event
which drastically affects a person's life or livelihood.  Floods,
fires, hurricanes, tornadoes, winter storms, earthquakes, droughts and
volcanic eruptions are considered to be natural disasters, events over
which one usually has no control.  Radiological and hazardous materials
accidents may be caused by the failure of people to maintain control
over the operation, transportation or storage of certain materials.  In
addition to an overview of the disaster, each section provides a series
of preparedness measures and post-disaster responses that should be
taken in conjunction with those outlined in the General Family
Preparedness section.

This handbook is not intended to cover every situation.  It provides
basic information you will need for a disaster situation and early
post-disaster response.  Because every community is different, special
consideration for the local area should be taken into account along
with the information provided in the Handbook.

Pages and sections of the Handbook may be removed and photocopied.
Information is structured in a manner conducive to public use.
Extension agents are encouraged to provide copies of the material to
the public both as "preventive education" and for response needs.

This Handbook was developed as a joint effort of Extension
Service-United States Department of Agriculture, the Texas Agricultural
Extension Service and the Hazard Reduction and Recovery Center, Texas
A&M University.





The information given herein is for educational purpose only.
Reference to commercial products or trade names is made with the
understanding that no discrimination is intended and no endorsement by
the Texas Agricultural Extension Service is implied.


Educational programs conducted by the Texas Agricultural Extension
Service serve citizens of all ages regardless of socioeconomic level,
race, color, sex, religion, disability or national origin. Issued in
furtherance of Cooperative Extension Work in Agriculture and Home
Economics, Acts of Congress of May 8, 1914, in cooperation with the
United States Department of Agriculture.  Zerle L. Carpenter, Director,
Texas Agricultural Extension Service, The Texas A&M University System.
 9/94

			   Acknowledgments

  The following agencies and individuals have contributed to the
  development of this handbook.

  American Red Cross-National Headquarters American Red Cross-Brazos
  Valley Chapter Arkansas Cooperative Extension Colorado Earthquake
  Hazard Reduction Program (CEHRP) Federal Emergency Management Agency
  Florida Cooperative Extension Service Hazard Reduction and Recovery
  Center-Texas A&M University (HRRC) Kansas State Cooperative Extension
  Service National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) National Weather
  Service Natural Hazards Centers-University of Colorado North Carolina
  Cooperative Extension Service North Carolina Emergency Management
  Penn State University Texas Agricultural Extension Service (TAEX)
  Texas Agri-Business Electric United States Department of
  Agriculture-Extension Service (ES-USDA) United States Department of
  Agriculture-Agriculture (Ag-USDA) United States Fire Administration
  (USFA) Washington State Cooperative Extension

  Meri K. Appy - NFPA Dr. David Bilbo - TAEX/HRRC Dr. Wayne Blanchard -
  FEMA Dr. Judith Bowers - ES-USDA Dr. Billy Caldwell - NC Extension
  Jim Coyle - USFA Dr. Chester Fehlis - TAEX Dr. Guy Fipps - TAEX Wilma
  Hammet - NC Extension Dr. Phil Hamman - TAEX Catherine Henry - NC EM
  Dr. Glenda Herman - NC Extension Dr. Jennie Kitching - TAEX Harriet
  Jennings - NC Extension Virginia Kimball Dr. Bruce Lesikar - TAEX
  Shirley Lewis - TAEX
    Dr. Elizabeth Limersal - FEMA  Dr. Rocky Lopes - ARC Mary Fran
  Myers - Natural Hazards Center Dr. Sherry Oaks - CEHRP Dr. Nell Page
  - TAEX Greg Parham - ES-USDA Dr. Susan Quiring - TAEX Brad Rein -
  ES-USDA Gordon Riall - TAEX Dr. Milo Schult - AR Extension Greg Stark
  - Texas Agri-Business Electric Bob Stephens - WA Extension Dr. John
  Sweeten - TAEX William Thomas - B/CS Red Cross Jay Todd - TAEX Dr.
  Doug Welsh - TAEX Dr. Dennis Wenger - HRRC Don Wernly - National
  Weather Service
    Sandra Zaslow - NC ExtensionSupplemental funding for reproduction
    and distribution provided by the
		   College of Architecture
		      Texas A&M University.                      Table
		      of Contents


Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  i

Acknowledgments. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ii

General Family Preparedness. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
   Why Preparedness? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
   Family Disaster Supply Kit. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  2
   4-Step Family Preparedness Plan . . . . . . . . . . . .  7
      Preparing Children for Disaster. . . . . . . . . . . 10
      Special Preparations for People with Disabilities. . 10
      Special Preparations for the Hearing Impaired. . . . 11
      Special Preparations for the Visually Impaired . . . 11
   Evacuation Procedures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
      Preparing for Evacuation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
      Evacuating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
      Returning Home After the Disaster. . . . . . . . . . 15
   When Disaster Strikes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
      The Role of Government After a Disaster. . . . . . . 16
   Emotional Recovery After a Disaster . . . . . . . . . . 17
      Helping Children Cope After a Disaster . . . . . . . 18
   Food Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
      Precautions Against Power Outages. . . . . . . . . . 20
      After a Power Outage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
      Tornado and Wind Related Contamination . . . . . . . 21
     Flooded Food Recovery. . .  . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
     Food Safety After a Fire . . . . . .  . . . . . . . . 23
   Insurance and Resources After a Disaster. . . . . . . . 24
  Special Post-Disaster Considerations. . . . . . . . . .  26
      Restoring Flooded Water Systems. . . . . . . . . . . 26
      Disinfecting Wells . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
      Disposing of Animal Carcasses. . . . . . . . . . . . 28
   Additional Resources. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

   Drought  .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
   Water Conservation. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
   Water Conservation at Home. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
   Reading a Water Meter To Measure Leaks. . . . . . . . . 34
   Installing a Low-Flow Showerhead. . . . . . . . . . . . 34 
   Installing Shower Flow Restrictors. . . . . . . . . . . 34
   Installing Toilet Dams. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
   Water Saving Steps When Remodeling. . . . . . . . . . . 36
   Making Repairs To Toilets To Stop Water Loss. . . . . . 36 
   Repairing Faucet Leaks. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
   Adding New Landscape Or Redesigning The Yard. . . . . . 39
   Landscape Water Conservation. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
   Watering Lawns and Plants During a Drought. . . . . . . 44
   Special Considerations for Agricultural Producers . . . 45
      Developing a Crop Water Management Plan. . . . . . . 45
      Crop Water Requirements and Water Use Efficiencies . 46
      Developing and Improving Vegetative Cover. . . . . . 48
      Maintaining Vegetative Cover . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
      Managing Salinity . . . . . . .  . . . . . . . . . . 50

Earthquakes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
   How Earthquakes are Measured. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
   Preparing for an Earthquake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
   During an Earthquake. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
   Responses Inside Buildings During an Earthquake . . . . 55
   Responses if You are Outside During an Earthquake . . . 55
   After an Earthquake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
   Special Considerations for Agricultural Producers . . . 57

Residential Fires. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
   Fire Safety and Prevention. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
   What to Do in Case of a Fire. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
   What to Do After a Fire . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61

Floods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62
   Preparing for Floods and Flash Floods . . . . . . . . . 63
   Building Dikes To Prevent Minor Surface Flooding. . . . 64
   Preventing Leaks in Basements . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65
   Cleaning Up After a Flood Setting Priorities. . . . . . 67
   Salvaging Sewing Machines and Sergers . . . . . . . . . 68
   Cleaning Flood-soiled Pillows and Mattresses. . . . . . 69
Cleaning Flood-soiled Blankets, Quilts, Comforters, Linens 72
  Restoring Electrical Service After a Flood. .  . . . . . 74
  Flooded Gardens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  76
   Checking Flood-damaged Buildings. . . . . . . . . . . . 77
   Cleaning and Repairing Flooded Basements. . . . . . . . 79
   Finding and Repairing Leaks in Roofs. . . . . . . . . . 81
   Controlling Rodents After Floods. . . . . . . . . . . . 82
   Controlling Insects After Floods. . . . . . . . . . . . 83
   Special Considerations for Agricultural Producers . . . 84
Preparing For a Flood or Flash Flood on Your Farm or Ranch 84
      Protecting Livestock During a Flood. . . . . . . . . 84
      Preparing to Evacuate Your Farm. . . . . . . . . . . 85
      Safety Rules for Farm Clean-up . . . . . . . . . . . 86

Hazardous Materials Accidents. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87
   Preparing for Hazardous Materials Accidents in the Home 88
   What to Do If a Hazardous Materials Accident Occurs . . 90
   After a Hazardous Materials Incident. . . . . . . . . . 91
   Reacting to a Hazardous Spill in Your Home. . . . . . . 92
   Special Considerations for Agricultural Producers . . . 93
      What to do if a Hazardous Materials Accident Occurs. 93
      After a Hazardous Materials Accident . . . . . . . . 93

Hurricanes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94
   How and Where Hurricanes Form . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94
   Why Hurricanes are a Risk to People . . . . . . . . . . 95
   How to Prepare for a Hurricane. . . . . . . . . . . . . 96
   Actions During a Hurricane Situation. . . . . . . . . . 97
   Basic Response After a Hurricane. . . . . . . . . . . . 98
   Special Considerations for Agricultural Producers . . . 99
      Turf Grass Recovery After a Storm Surge. . . . . . . 99
      Recovering Small Fruits. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .101

Radiological Accidents . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .103
   Radiation Types . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .104
   Preparing for a Nuclear Power Plant Accident. . . . . .105
   What to Do in a Nuclear Power Plant Emergency . . . . .106
   Safety of Home Gardens After a Nuclear Accident . . . .107
   Recovering Losses and Expenses from a Nuclear Accident.107
   Special Considerations for Agricultural Producers . . .108
      What to Do in a Nuclear Power Plant Emergency. . . .108
      Animal Care After a Nuclear Accident . . . . . . . .109
      Recovering Exposed Fruits, Vegetables and Soils. . .110
      Monitoring Fish and Marine Life. . . . . . . . . . .111
      Marketing Animals and Products . . . . . . . . . . .111

Tornadoes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .112
   How to Prepare for a Tornado. . . . . . . . . . . . . .113
   Special Precautions for Mobile Home Dwellers. . . . . .114
   What to Do During a Tornado Warning . . . . . . . . . .115
   Responses After a Tornado . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .116
   Inspecting Buildings for Hidden Wind Damage . . . . . .116
   Special Considerations for Agricultural Producers . . .117

Volcanic Eruptions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .118
   Preparing for a Volcanic Eruption . . . . . . . . . . .119
   During a Volcanic Eruption. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .120
   Driving in Heavy Ash Areas. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .121

Winter Storms. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .122
   Preparing for Winter Storms . . . . . . . . . . . . . .123
   Special Considerations for Travelers. . . . . . . . . .125
   Winterizing Mobile Homes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .126
   Winterizing Residential Buildings . . . . . . . . . . .129
   Preparations to Reduce Heat Loss from Buildings . . . .130
   What To Do During a Home Power Failure. . . . . . . . .131
   Responses to Other Heat Loss Problems . . . . . . . . .134
   Protecting Your Hot Water System. . . . . . . . . . . .135
   Protecting Your Plumbing System . . . . . . . . . . . .136
   Protecting Your Sewage System . . . . . . . . . . . . .137
   Protecting Appliances . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .137
   Preventing Ice Dams on Eaves. . . . . . . . . . . . . .138
   Responses to Take When Caught Outdoors. . . . . . . . .139
   Responses If Trapped By a Blizzard. . . . . . . . . . .140
   Special Considerations for Agricultural Producers . . .141
      Preparing for a Winter Storm . . . . . . . . . . . .141
      Providing Windbreaks for Livestock Protection. . . .142
      Creating Windbreaks On Your Property . . . . . . . .143
      Protecting Livestock During Winter Storms. . . . . .145
      Caring for Livestock After a Blizzard. . . . . . . .146
      Feeding Cattle After a Blizzard. . . . . . . . . . .146
      Feeding Sheep After a Blizzard . . . . . . . . . . .147
      Feeding Horses After a Blizzard. . . . . . . . . . .147
      Feeding Swine After a Blizzard . . . . . . . . . . .147
      Protecting Poultry and Livestock . . . . . . . . . .148
      Protecting Equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .149
      Storing Milk and Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .149
      Repairing Ice and Snow Damage to Shrubs and Trees. .150

Subject Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .151
		  General Family Preparedness

   General Family Preparedness . . . . . . . . . . .  1
      Why Preparedness?. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
      Family Disaster Supply Kit . . . . . . . . . .  2
      4-Step Family Preparedness Plan. . . . . . . .  7
	 Preparing Children for Disaster . . . . . . 10
   Special Preparations for People with Disabilities 10
   Special Preparations for the Hearing Impaired. .  11
   Special Preparations for the Visually Impaired. .  11
   Evacuation Procedures. . . . . .  . . . . . . . .  12
	 Preparing for Evacuation. . . . . . . . .  . 13
         Evacuating. . .  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
         Returning Home After the Disaster . . .  . . 15
         When Disaster Strikes.  . . . . . . .  . . . 16
	 The Role of Government After a Disaster  . . 16
         Emotional Recovery After a Disaster. . . . . 17
	 Helping Children Cope After a Disaster . . . 18
         Food Safety. .  . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . 20
	 Precautions Against Power Outages . . . . . 20
         After a Power Outage. . . . . . . . . . . . 20
         Tornado and Wind Related Contamination. . . 21
         Flooded Food Recovery . . . . . . . . . . . 22
         Food Safety After a Fire. . . . . . . . . . 23
      Insurance and Resources After a Disaster . . . 24
      Special Post-Disaster Considerations . . . . . 26
	 Restoring Flooded Water Systems . . . . . . 26
         Disinfecting Wells. . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
         Disposing of Animal Carcasses . . . . . . . 28
         Additional Resources . . . . . . .. . . . . 29


		 General Family Preparedness


  Disasters can affect any part of the United States at any time of the
  year, swiftly and without warning.  Most people don't think of a
  disaster until it is too late; then they suddenly realize how
  unprepared they are for the massive changes it makes in their lives.
  Local officials can be overwhelmed and emergency response personnel
  may not be able to reach everyone who needs help right away.

  Each type of disaster requires clean-up and recovery.  The period
  after a disaster is often very difficult for families, at times as
  devastating as the disaster itself.  Families which are prepared
  ahead of time can reduce the fear, confusion and losses that come
  with disaster.  They can be ready to evacuate their homes, know what
  to expect in public shelters and how to provide basic first aid.



		  Family Disaster Supply Kit


  One of the first steps toward preparedness is the creation of a
  family disaster supply kit.  This will help families get through the
  first few days after a disaster.  Public shelter after a disaster may
  not offer some of the basic necessities.  The development of a kit
  will make a stay in a public shelter more comfortable, should it be
  necessary.  Store the kit in a convenient place known to all family
  members.  Store items in airtight bags or containers.  Replenish the
  kit twice a year.

  Include six basic items:

	 Water (page 2) Food (page 3) First Aid Kit (page 4) Tools and
	 Supplies (page 5) Clothing and Bedding (page 6) Special Items
	 (page 6)


			  1.  Water



    Store water in clean plastic containers such as thoroughly washed
    and rinsed soft drink bottles with tight fitting screw-on caps.

    Store 1 gallon per day per family member (2 quarts for drinking, 2
    quarts for food preparation/ sanitation).  Children, nursing mothers
    and ill people will need more.  A 3-day supply of water should be
    stored for every family member.

    Replace water every 6 months.

    Notes:

			   2.  Food

  Store at least a 3-day supply of non-perishable food.  Select foods
  that require no refrigeration, preparation or cooking and little or
  no water.  If you must heat food, pack a can of sterno.  Rotate these
  foods into the regular diet frequently to keep the supply fresh.  In
  a disaster supply kit include:

    Ready-to-eat canned meats, fruits and vegetables

    Canned juices, milk, soup (if powdered, store extra water)

    Staples such as sugar, salt, pepper
    High energy foods such as peanut butter, jelly, crackers, granola
    bars, trail mix

    Vitamins, infant food and food for special diets

    Comfort/stress foods such as cookies, hard candy, instant coffee,
    tea bags


    Notes:

		      3.  First Aid Kit


  Assemble a first aid kit for the home and one for each vehicle.  An
  approved American Red Cross kit may be purchased, or one may be
  assembled with the following items:

    Sterile adhesive bandages in assorted sizes

    2-inch and 4-inch sterile gauze pads (4-6 of each)

    Hypoallergenic adhesive tape

    Triangular bandages (3)

    2-inch and 3-inch sterile roller bandages (3 rolls each)

    Scissors

    Tweezers

    Needle

    Moistened towelettes

    Antiseptic

    Thermometer Tongue blades (2)

    Sunscreen

    Tube of petroleum jelly or other lubricant

    Assorted sizes of safety pins

    Cleansing agent/soap

    Latex gloves (2 pairs)

  Non-prescription drugs

    Aspirin or nonaspirin pain reliever

    Anti-diarrhea medication

    Antacid (for stomach upset)

    Syrup of Ipecac (use to induce vomiting if advised by the Poison
    Control Center)

    Laxative

    Activated charcoal (use if advised by the Poison Control Center)


    Notes:

		    4.  Tools and Supplies


  Various tools and supplies may be needed for temporary repairs or
  personal needs.  Include these items in your disaster supply kit:

    Battery operated radio and extra batteries

    Flashlight and extra batteries

    Non-electric can opener, utility knife

    Map of the area (for locating shelters)

    Cash or traveler's checks, change

    Fire extinguisher: small canister, ABC type

    Tube tent

    Pliers

    Tape

    Compass

    Matches in waterproof container

    Aluminum foil

    Plastic storage containers

    Signal flare Paper, pencil

    Needles, thread

    Medicine dropper

    Shut-off wrench, to turn off household gas and water

    Whistle

    Plastic sheeting

    Mess kits or paper cups, plates and plastic utensils

    Emergency preparedness manual

  Sanitation

    Toilet paper

    Soap, liquid detergent

    Feminine hygiene supplies

    Personal hygiene items

    Plastic garbage bags, ties (for personal sanitation uses)

    Plastic bucket with tight lid

    Disinfectant

    Household chlorine bleach


    Notes:

		   5.  Clothing and Bedding


  Your disaster supply kit should include at least one complete change
  of clothing and footwear per person.  Items to include are:

    Sturdy shoes or work boots

    Rain gear Blankets or sleeping bags

    Hat and gloves

    Thermal underwear

    Sunglasses




		      6.  Special Items


  Family members may have special needs.  Other items you may add to
  your kit include:

  For Babies:

    Formula

    Diapers

    Bottles

    Powdered milk

    Medications

  For Adults:

    Heart and high blood pressure medication

    Insulin

    Prescription drugs

    Denture needs

    Contact lenses and supplies

    Extra pair of eye glasses Entertainment

    Games and books

  Important Family Documents:

  Keep these in a waterproof, portable container.

    Wills, insurance policies, contracts, deeds, stocks and bonds

    Passports, social security cards, immunization records

    Bank account numbers

    Credit card account numbers and companies

    Inventory of valuable goods, important telephone numbers

    Family records (birth, marriage, death certificates)


	       4-Step Family Preparedness Plan



  In addition to your family disaster supply kit, develop a family
  preparedness plan.  This plan needs to be known to all family
  members.  A basic preparedness plan has four steps:
    Do your homework (page 7) Create a family disaster plan (page 8)
    Make a checklist and periodically update it (page 8) Practice and
    maintain your plan (page 9)



		     1.  Do your homework


  Find out what disasters could happen in your area.  Contact your
  local emergency management or civil defense office and American Red
  Cross chapter to:

    Learn which disasters are possible where you live and how these
    disasters might affect your family.

    Request information on how to prepare and respond to each
    potential disaster.

    Learn about your community's warning signals, what they sound like,
    what they mean and what actions you should take when they are activated.
    Learn about local, state or federal assistance plans.

    Find out about the emergency response plan for your workplace, your
    children's school or day-care center, as well as other places where
    your family spends time.

    Develop a list of important telephone numbers (doctor, work, school,
    relatives) and keep it in a prominent place in your home.

    Ask about animal care.  Pets may not be allowed inside shelters
    because of health regulations.


    Notes:
	      2.  Create a family disaster plan


  Discuss with your family the need to prepare for disaster.  Explain
  the danger of fire, severe weather (tornadoes, hurricanes) and floods
  to children.  Develop a plan to share responsibilities and how to
  work together as a team.

    Discuss the types of disasters that are
       most likely to occur and how to respond.

    Establish meeting places inside and
       outside your home, as well as outside the neighborhood.  Make
       sure everyone knows when and how to contact each other if
       separated.  Decide on the best escape routes from
       your home.  Identify two ways out of each room.

    Plan how to take care of your pets.

    Establish a family contact out-of-town
       (friend or relative).  Call this person after the disaster to
       let them know where you are and if you are okay.  Make sure
       everyone knows the contact's phone number.

    Learn what to do if you are advised to evacuate.



       3.  Make a checklist and periodically update it


    Post emergency telephone numbers by phones (fire, police, ambulance,
     etc.).

    Teach your children how and when to call 911 or your local EMS
    number for help.

    Show each family member how to turn off the water, gas and
    electricity at the main valves or switches.

    Teach each family member how to use a fire extinguisher (ABC type)
    and have a central place to keep it.  Check it each year.

    Install smoke detectors on each level of your home, especially near
     bedrooms.  Conduct a home hazard hunt.

    Stock emergency supplies and assemble a disaster supply kit.

    Learn basic first aid.  At the very least, each family member should
    know CPR, how to help someone who is choking and first aid for
    severe bleeding and shock.  The Red Cross offers basic training of
    this nature.

    Identify safe places in your home to go for each type of disaster.

    Check to be sure you have adequate insurance coverage.


    Notes:
	     4.  Practice and maintain your plan


    Test children's knowledge of the plan every 6 months so they remember
    what to do.

    Conduct fire and emergency evacuation drills.  Replace stored water
    and food every 6 months.

    Test your smoke detectors monthly and change the batteries once a year.


   And...  In conjunction with the preparedness plan, working with
  neighbors can save lives and property.  Meet with neighbors to plan
  how the neighborhood could work together after a disaster until help
  arrives.  Members of a neighborhood organization, such as a home
  association or crime watch group, can introduce disaster preparedness
  as a new activity.

  Know your neighbors' special skills (medical, technical) and consider
  how to help neighbors who have special needs, such as disabled and
  elderly persons.  Make plans for child care in case parents can't get
  home.


  Notes:

	       Preparing Children for Disaster


  As you develop your preparedness plan, include children in the
  planning process.  Teach your children how to recognize danger
  signals.  Make sure they know what smoke detectors and other alarms
  sound like.  Make sure they know how and when to call for help.  If
  you live in a 9-1-1 service area, tell your child to call 9-1-1.  If
  not, check your telephone directory for the number.  Keep all
  emergency numbers posted by the phone.  Help your children to
  memorize important family information.  They should memorize their
  family name, phone number and address.  They also should know where
  to meet in case of an emergency.  If children are not old enough to
  memorize the information, they should carry a small index card to
  give to an adult or babysitter that lists the emergency information.



      Special Preparations for People with Disabilities


  People with disabilities may need to take additional steps to prepare
  for disaster.  If you are disabled or know someone who is, the
  following precautions should be taken.

    Ask about special assistance that may be
       available to you in an emergency.  Many communities ask people
       with disabilities to register, usually with the fire department
       or emergency management office, so needed help can be provided
       quickly in an emergency.

    If you currently use a personal care
       attendant obtained from an agency, check to see if the agency
       has special provisions for emergencies (e.g.  providing services
       at another location should an evacuation be ordered).

    Determine what you will need to do for
       each type of emergency.  For example, most people head for a
       basement when there is a tornado warning, but most basements are
       not wheelchair accessible.  Determine in advance what your
       alternative shelter will be and how you will get there.  Learn
       what to do in case of power outages and personal injuries.  Know
       how to connect or start a back-up power supply for essential
       medical equipment.

    If you or someone in your household
       uses a wheelchair, make more than one exit from your home
       wheelchair accessible in case the primary exit is blocked.

    Consider getting a medic alert system
       that will allow you to call for help if you are immobilized in
       an emergency.

    Store back-up equipment, such as a
       manual wheelchair, at a neighbor's home, school or your
       workplace.

    Avoid possible hazards by fastening
       shelves to the wall and placing large, heavy objects on the
       lower shelves or near the wall.   Also hang pictures or mirrors
       away from beds.  Bolt large pictures or mirrors to the wall.
       Secure water heaters by strapping them to a nearby wall.


	Special Preparations for the Hearing Impaired


  Deaf or hearing impaired individuals will have a more difficult time
  communicating after a disaster.  People may not realize you can't
  hear warning signals and instructions, and may leave you behind.  If
  there is a power failure, your teletypewriter will be useless, and
  communicating in the dark will require a flashlight.  To avoid
  potential problems you should:

    Make sure you have a flashlight, pad and
       pencil by your bed at home.  Ask a neighbor to be your source of
       information as it comes over the radio.

    Remind co-workers that you can't hear an evacuation order.

    If you are trapped in a room, knock on the door or hit objects
    together to let others know you are there.



	Special Preparations for the Visually Impaired


  Blind or visually impaired individuals will have a difficult time
  after a disaster if surroundings have been greatly disrupted.  In
  addition, seeing eye dogs may be too frightened or injured to be
  reliable.  Have an extra cane at home and work, even if you have a
  seeing eye dog.  If you are trapped, make noise to alert others.
  Also keep in mind that, if electricity fails, blind people can assist
  sighted people and potentially save lives.


    Notes:
		    Evacuation Procedures




    Evacuations during a disaster are a common event.  Evacuation
       procedures vary by location and disaster.  Contact your local
       emergency management or civil defense office for specific
       evacuation plans.

    The amount of time you will have to evacuate depends on the
    disaster.  Some disasters, such as hurricanes, may allow several days to
       prepare.  Hazardous materials accidents may only allow moments
       to leave.  This means that preparation is essential since there
       may not be time to collect the basic necessities.

    Evacuations can last for several days.  During this time you may be
       responsible for part or all of your own food, clothing and other
       supplies.

    Preparing for Evacuation (page 13)

    Evacuating (page 14)

    Returning Home After the Disaster (page 15)


  Notes:

		   Preparing for Evacuation


  Advance planning will make evacuation procedures easier.  First, you
  should have your family disaster supply kit and plan ready.
  Additional steps that can aid preparedness include:

  1. Review possible evacuation procedures with your family.

    Ask a friend or relative outside your area to be the check-in
    contact so that everyone in the family can call that person
    to say they are safe.

    Find out where children will be sent if they are in school when
    an evacuation is announced.

  2. Plan now where you would go if you had to evacuate.

    Consider the homes of relatives or friends who live nearby, but
    outside the area of potential disaster.  Contact the local emergency
       management office for community evacuation plans.  Review public
       information to identify reception areas and shelter areas.

  3. Keep fuel in your car's gas tank at all times.  During emergencies,
     filling stations may be closed.  Never store extra fuel in the garage.

  4. If you do not have a car or other vehicle, make transportation
     arrangements with friends, neighbors or your local emergency
     management office.

  5. Know where and how to shut off electricity, gas and water at main
     switches and valves.  Make sure you have the tools you need to do
     this (usually pipe and crescent or adjustable wrenches).  Check
     with your local utilities for instructions.


  Notes:

			  Evacuating


  When you are told to evacuate there are four steps you need to take:

  1. If there is time, secure your house.

	 Unplug appliances.

	 In a flood hazard area, store propane tanks or secure them
         safely to the structure.

	 Turn off the main water valve.

	 Take any actions needed to prevent damage to water pipes by
         freezing weather, if this is a threat.  Securely close and
         lock all doors, windows and garage.

  2.      Follow recommended evacuation routes.  Do not take shortcuts,
          they may be blocked.

  3.      Listen to the radio for emergency shelter information.

  4.      Carry your family disaster supply kit.


    Notes:
	      Returning Home After the Disaster


  1.      Do not return until the local authorities say it is safe.

  2.      Continue listening to the radio for information and instructions.

  3.      Use extreme caution when entering or working in buildings
          structures may have been damaged or weakened.  Watch for
          poisonous snakes in flooded structures and debris.

  4.      Do not take lanterns, torches or any kind of flame into a damaged
          building.  There may be leaking gas or other flammable materials
          present.  Use battery-operated flashlights for light.  If you
          suspect a gas leak, do not use any kind of light.  The light
          itself could cause an explosion.

  5.      If you smell leaking gas, turn off the main gas valve at the meter.
          If you can open windows safely, do so.

	 Do not turn on lights they can produce sparks that may ignite the gas.          Leave the house immediately and notify the gas company or the
         fire department.

	 Do not reenter the house until an
	    authorized person tells you it is safe to do so.

  6.      Notify the power company or fire
	    department if you see fallen or damaged electrical wires.

  7.      If any of your appliances are wet, turn
	    off the main electrical power switch in your home before
	    you unplug them.  Dry out appliances, wall switches and
	    sockets before you plug them in again.  Call utility
	    companies for assistance.

  8.      Check food and water supplies for
	    contamination and spoilage before using them.

  9.      Wear sturdy shoes when walking through broken glass or debris,
          and use heavy gloves when removing debris.

  10.     After the emergency is over, telephone your family and friends
          to tell them you are safe.


  Notes:

		    When Disaster Strikes

  Hopefully you will never have to experience disaster.  When it does
  happen, however, try to remain calm and patient and put your family
  preparedness plan into action.  You should follow the following
  steps:

	 Retrieve your disaster supply kit.

	 Wear protective clothing and sturdy shoes.

	 Confine or secure pets to protect them.

    Go to the safe place in your home you identified and stay there
    until well after the disaster is over.

	 Listen to your battery-powered radio for news and
	 instructions.

	 Evacuate, if advised to do so.



	   The Role of Government After a Disaster


  After a preliminary damage assessment report has been completed, the
  governor of a state can request a major disaster or emergency
  declaration from the president.

  Declaration of an Emergency.  The president can issue a Declaration
  of Emergency to supplement the state and local effort to save lives
  and protect property.  The president can act only after a state
  governor has requested a Declaration of an Emergency be issued.
  Total assistance provided in any given emergency declaration may not
  exceed $5 million.  Declaration of a Major Disaster.  A major
  disaster declaration may be requested by the governor to the
  president after a natural catastrophe occurs.  Assistance is offered
  to both the public and private sectors.  With the declaration, the
  Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) has the authority to
  engage the services of 12 federal departments, two agencies, one
  commission, one corporation and one authority offering 97 different
  Federal assistance programs.  These 97 programs provide many
  different services to help people and state and local governments
  deal with recovery from a disaster.  A listing of the main agencies
  that provide assistance can be found in General Family Preparedness,
  Insurance and Resources After a Disaster.


	     Emotional Recovery After a Disaster



  In addition to the physical damage a disaster brings, stress and
  emotional disequilibrium need to be addressed by victims.  Steps you
  can take to reduce the effects of a disaster include:

    Be extra patient.

    Keep in mind that other people may have a different viewpoint about
    what should be top priority.

    Realize that it will take time to restore things, both physically
    and emotionally.

    Try to keep your family diet as nutritious as possible.

    Focus on the big picture instead of the little details.  This will
    give you a sense of completeness.

    Talk with friends, family and clergy.  A support network is
    essential in a disaster situation.

    Watch for the tendency to resort to bad habits when you are under
    stress.

  If you are dealing with disaster victims, realize that it's natural
  for them to express disbelief, sadness, anger, anxiety and
  depression.  Also realize that these emotions and moods can change
  unexpectedly.



  Notes:


	    Helping Children Cope After a Disaster


  Children may require special attention after experiencing a
  disaster.  Four common fears children have are death, darkness,
  animals and abandonment.  In a disaster children may experience any
  or all of these.  You should encourage children to talk about what
  they are feeling and to express this through play, drawing or
  painting.

  A child's reaction to a disaster may vary depending on age, maturity
  and previous experience.  In all cases it is important to acknowledge
  what happened and take time to talk with children about their fears.

  Some behaviors you may find children exhibiting after a disaster
  include:

    Being upset at the loss of a favorite toy, blanket, teddy bear, etc.

    Hitting, throwing or kicking to show their anger and frustration.

    Fear of the disaster coming again.

    Fear of being left alone or sleeping alone. They may want to sleep
    with another person.

    Behaving as they did when they were younger, including wetting
    the bed, sucking their thumb, wanting to be held, etc.

    Exhibiting symptoms of illness such as nausea, fever, headaches,
    not wanting to eat, etc.

    Becoming quiet and withdrawn.  Becoming easily upset.

    Feeling that they caused the disaster in some way.

    Feeling neglected by parents who are busy cleaning up or rebuilding.

    Refusing to go to school or to be out of the parent's sight.

  Parents and other adults can help children come to terms with their
  feelings in several ways.

    Let children know you love them and they can count on you.  
    Reassure them that they are not responsible for what occurred.

    Talk with your children about your own feelings.

    Give simple, accurate answers to children's questions.

    Hold them.  Close contact assures children you are there for
    them and will not abandon them.

    Let children grieve for a lost toy or blanket that was special
    to them.  It will help them cope with their feelings.

    Provide play experiences to relieve stress.

    Repeat assurances and information as often as you need to; do not
    stop responding.

    Spend extra time putting children to bed at night.

    Listen to what children say.  Repeat their words to clarify what
    they are feeling.  If additional help is needed for adults or
       children, contact a community resource such as a counseling
       center, minister or mental health agency.


  Notes:

			 Food Safety




  Food safety precautions can make an important difference after a
  disaster occurs.  Food can become contaminated as a result of fire,
  flood and wind related exposure.  It also may spoil or become unsafe
  after a power outage.





	      Precautions Against Power Outages


  If your area comes under an advisory that may lead to prolonged power
  outages (hurricanes, prolonged flooding, etc.) take these steps to
  help keep your food safe:

    Turn your refrigerator and freezer to the coldest setting.  This
    will help the food stay frozen.  Purchase a 50-pound block of dry ice.
       This will keep food in a full 18 cubic foot freezer safe for 2
       days.  Wrap it in brown paper for longer storage.  Separate it
       from direct food contact with a piece of cardboard.

    Fill partially filled freezers with crumpled newspaper to reduce
    air currents which will dissipate dry ice.



		     After a Power Outage


  If you should lose power, the emergency food supplies in your family
  disaster supply kit will be safe.  Food in the refrigerator and
  freezer may be in trouble.

  Generally, food in a refrigerator will be safe if the power is not
  out longer than a few hours and the temperature has been at 40øF or below.  Food in a full, free-standing freezer should be safe for about 2 days if the temperature was at 0øF or below.  Food in a half-full freezer should be safe for about 1 day if the temperature was at 0øF or below.  To prolong the life of your food the following measures should be taken.
    Group meat and poultry to one side, or
       on a tray, so their juices won't contaminate other foods if they
       begin to thaw.

    Be wary of using meat, poultry and
       foods containing milk, cream, sour cream or soft cheese.

    Don't rely on odor or appearance of
       food.  If perishable food has been at room temperature for more
       than 2 hours, discard it.

		      (continued next page) After a Power Outage
			 (continued)


  In emergency conditions, the following foods should keep at room
  temperature (above 40øF) a few days.  Discard anything that turns moldy or has an unusual odor or look.

    Butter, margarine

    Fresh fruits and vegetables

    Dried fruits and coconut

    Opened jars of salad dressing, peanut
       butter, jelly, relish, taco sauce, barbecue sauce, mustard,
       catsup, olives

    Hard and processed cheeses

    Fruit juices

    Fresh herbs and spices

    Flour and nuts

     Fruit pies

    Bread, rolls, cakes and muffins Discard the following foods if kept
  for more than 2 hours above 40øF.

    Raw or cooked meat, poultry and
       seafood

    Milk, cream, yogurt, soft cheese

    Cooked pasta, pasta salads

    Custard, chiffon or cheese pies

    Fresh eggs, egg substitutes

    Meat topped pizzas, lunchmeats

    Casseroles, stews or soups

    Mayonnaise and tartar sauce

    Refrigerator and cookie doughs

    Cream filled pastries

  Refreeze thawed foods that still contain ice crystals or feel cold.



	    Tornado and Wind Related Contamination


  If you live in an area that has sustained tornado or wind damage,
  take the following measures.

    Drink only approved or chlorinated
       water.

    Consider all water from wells, cisterns
       and other delivery systems in the disaster area unsafe until
       tested.  Check foods and discard any containing
       particles of glass or slivers of other debris.

    Discard canned foods with broken
       seams.


  Notes:

		    Flooded Food Recovery


  Flood waters may carry contaminants such as silt, raw sewage or
  chemical waste.  Disease bacteria in the water also can contaminate
  any food it touches.  If you have experienced flood conditions,
  follow these guidelines:
    Save undamaged commercially canned
       foods (except as noted later).  Do not use home-canned foods
    that have
       been covered with flood water.  Commercial glass jars of food
    are safe if
       the containers are sanitized (except as noted later).  Remove
    the labels from jars and cans and
       mark the contents on can or jar lid with indelible ink.  Paper
       can harbor dangerous bacteria.  To sanitize jars, cans, dishes
  and glassware, wash in a strong detergent solution with a scrub
  brush.  After washing, immerse them in a solution of 2 teaspoons
  chlorine bleach per gallon of room temperature water.  Air dry before
  using.  If needed, clean empty glass also may be sanitized by boiling
  in water for 10 minutes.  To sanitize metal pans and utensils, boil
  in water for 10 minutes.  Discard wooden and plastic utensils, baby
  nipples, pacifiers and any other porous nonfood items that are used
  with food.  Discard the following foods:

    Meat, poultry, fish and eggs

    Fresh produce

    Preserves sealed with paraffin

    Unopened jars with waxed cardboard
       seals such as mayonnaise and salad dressing

    All foods in cardboard boxes, paper, foil,
       cellophane or cloth

    Spices, seasonings and extracts

    Home-canned foods

    Opened containers and packages

    Flour, grain, sugar, coffee and other
       staples in canisters

    Dented, leaking, bulging or rusted cans


    Notes:
		   Food Safety After a Fire


  Food that has been exposed to fire can be affected by three factors:

     the heat of the fire smoke fumes the chemicals used to fight the
     fire

  Food in cans or jars that have been close to the heat of the fire may
  appear to be unharmed, but the heat from the fire can activate food
  spoilage bacteria, leaving them inedible.

  Burning materials may release toxic fumes that contaminate food.
  Discard any type of food stored in permeable packaging such as
  cardboard or plastic wrap.  Discard raw food outside the
  refrigerator.  Food in refrigerators and freezers also may be
  contaminated.  The seal on these appliances is not completely
  airtight.  Discard any food with an off-flavor or smell.  The
  chemicals used to fight fires contain toxic material that can
  contaminate food and cookware.  Throw away foods exposed to the
  chemicals.  Chemicals cannot be washed off the food.  This includes
  foods stored at room temperature, as well as foods stored in
  permeable containers such as cardboard and screw-topped jars and
  bottles.

  Sanitize canned goods and cookware in the same method as recommended
  for flooded foods.


    Notes:
	   Insurance and Resources After a Disaster



  Most homeowner policies offer coverage for losses due to natural
  disasters except flooding.  If you are unsure what your policy
  covers, check it before a disaster happens.  Contact your agent for
  clarification if you are still unsure.  In general most insurance
  policies cover:

    Your house, rental units that are part of the building and any
    attachments to the building,
       such as the garage.

    Structures on the grounds that are not attached to the house, such
    as a pool, gazebo, tool
       shed, etc.  This also includes the lawn, trees and shrubs on the
       property.

    Vacant land you own or rent, with the exception of farmland.

    Cemetery plots or burial vaults you may own.

    Personal possessions, including those of members of your household
    and guests, and
       contents of the house.  This does not include the possessions of
       tenants in your home.

    Any items that have been loaned to you, or given for safe keeping.

    Living expense if your home is unlivable due to damage.

    Rental payments, if you rent one part of your house but it is
    unlivable due to damage.

    Responsibility for unauthorized use of your credit cards, forged
    checks or counterfeit
       currency accepted in good faith.

    Settlement, medical expenses and court costs brought against you
    for bodily injury of
       others or damage to the property of others.



  Most homeowner policies DO NOT cover loss due to flooding.  You
  should check to see if your community participates in the National
  Flood Insurance Program.


		     (continued on next page)
  If you need financial assistance, programs are available.  Programs
  include:


     The American Red Cross...offers emergency assistance for
     groceries, new clothes,
       medical needs and immediate building repairs.


     Farmers Home Administration(FmHA)...offers agricultural loans only
     when other
       credit is not available.  Qualifying farmers can get short-,
       medium- or long-term loans with moderate interest.


     Federal Crop Insurance Corporation (FCIC)...Farmers can insure
     crops for 50, 65 or
       75 percent of yield.  Unavoidable losses due to any adverse
       weather conditions including drought, excessive moisture, hail,
       wind, hurricanes, tornadoes and lightning are covered.
       Unavoidable losses due to insect infestations, plant diseases,
       floods, fires and earthquakes also are covered.  You must have
       this insurance prior to the disaster.


     Small Business Administration (SBA)...offers medium- and long-term
     loans for
       rebuilding non-farm homes and small businesses with moderate
       interest rates.


     Commercial and federal land banks offer loans for home repair and
     improvement, land,
       equipment and livestock.  Insurance companies offer long-term
       loans at relatively high interest for the same things.
       Assistance also may be available through a variety of state or
       local agencies and volunteer groups.  Listen to your battery
       operated radio after a disaster for information on disaster
       relief services and locations.



  Non-financial resources also are available to many disaster victims.
  Technical assistance is available from:


     The Agricultural Stabilization and Conservation Service
     (ASCS)...for information on
       livestock and wildlife feeding, production and conservation
       practices.


     The Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service (APHIS)...offers
     technical assistance
       on animal and plant pests and diseases.


     Extension Service-USDA...offers information, educational material
     and advice on
       cleanup.


     The Food Safety Inspection Service (FSIS)...can be reached toll
     free at (800) 535-4555 for questions on the safe handling of meat
and poultry.


  Notes:

	     Special Post-Disaster Considerations



	       Restoring Flooded Water Systems


  1. Do not start submerged electric motors
       until they have been cleaned, dried and checked for safety.

    Disconnect the motor.  An ejector
       or jet pump motor may be a separate unit mounted on the pump, or
       the end bell of the motor may be part of the pump.  The separate
       motor unit can be disconnected and serviced easily.  With the
       second type, remove the pump and motor as a unit.  It is not
       necessary to remove the drop pipes.

    Take the motor to an electrical
       repair shop.  In the shop, the motor should be checked for any
       short circuits or grounding caused by moisture.  If the motor
       was submerged in mud and water, it should be thoroughly
       cleaned.  Windings should be dried in a drying oven.  The
       bearings should be lubricated before you use the motor again.

    Clean and dry electrical controls
       and pressure switches.  Check all wiring for short circuits.

  2. Pumps usually are damaged by sediment
       deposited in the bearings.  Clean pumps.  Check valves for silt
       and sand.  Remove all dirt and water from the gears in the gear
       box and replace the lubricant with fresh oil.

    Submersible pumps.  The bearings
       on water-lubricated pumps will not be damaged by flood waters,
       since these bearings
	  are constantly submerged in water.
	    As soon as possible, flush clean water down the casing to
	    remove sediment and silt.  Then disinfect the well.

    Centrifugal pumps.  Many
       centrifugal pumps contain two sets of oil-lubricated bearings
       along the drive shaft between the motor and the pump.  If the
       pump has been flooded, dismantle the container bracket and
       remove the bearings.

    Clean the bearings, or install new
       bearings if the old ones are worn out.

    Close-coupled centrifugal pumps
       contain no bearings, so there is little chance of flood damage
       except to the electric motor.

  3. Injector-type pumps.  These pumps
       usually contain watertight packing at the ground surface, with
       sealed impellers.  Flood waters probably will not damage this
       type of pump.

  4. The storage tank and piping should be
       all right unless muddy water was pumped through it.  If tank is
       contaminated, disinfect the entire system with a strong chlorine
       solution.  Use 1 quart household laundry bleach or check with
       local health department for recommended solution strength.

     Open all faucets while the system is
       being filled.  Do not close the spigot until a definite smell of
       chlorine is evident.  Do not use the system for

		      (continued next page) Restoring Flooded Water
	       Systems
			 (continued)


     24 hours.  Then start the pump and run
       water from all faucets until the chlorine odor is gone.

  5. Wells probably will not be damaged
       structurally from floods, but they may be contaminated.  Have
       your well tested by health officials before you use the water.

  6. If the well is located in a low spot, it
       may be contaminated with silt from floodwaters draining into
       it.  If so, the well and entire water system should be
       disinfected.  To disinfect the well system:

    Pump the well until water is clear.

    Pour a solution of 1 quart liquid
       laundry bleach (Clorox , Purex , Hilex  or a similar
       hypochlorite solution) mixed in 3 gallons of water into the well
       casing.  Leave it there at least 4 hours, or preferably
       overnight.

    Pump the chlorinated water into the
       piping system, and leave it there for at least 2 hours or even
       overnight.

    The next day, pump and flush out
       the system until the taste and odor of chlorine are no longer
       apparent.  Two days after you have disinfected the water system
       take a sample of water according to recommended procedures and
       have it tested for purity.  Boil or treat all drinking water
       until a water test indicates that water is safe for all
       purposes.  7. Do not drink water from a flooded
       cistern until you disinfect the cistern and the entire piping
       system.  To disinfect the cistern:

	 Use an auxiliary pump to remove
	    the water and empty the cistern.  Do not pump water through
	    the pipeline distribution system.

	 Wash down the walls and ceiling
	    with clean water, and pump out the dirty water with an
	    auxiliary pump.

    Check the cistern walls, ceiling and
       floor for cracks where groundwater could come in.

	 Disinfect the interior with a
	    solution of 1 quart laundry bleach in 3 gallons of water.
	    Be sure the bleach contains no soap.  Apply the chlorine
	    solution with a sprayer or scrub with a stiff broom.

     Swab or pump out the disinfecting
       solution that collects in the bottom of the cistern.

	 Leave the chlorine solution in the
	    pipes for at least 2 hours (overnight if possible) before
	    you drain them.

	 Fill the cistern with water for use.
	    This water will have a chlorine taste for awhile, but it
	    will be safe for all purposes.

  8. Regenerate water softeners before you
       use them.  Use clean chlorinated water to backwash the
       filterbed.


		      Disinfecting Wells


  Disinfect flooded wells before they are used as a source of drinking
  water.  To disinfect a well:

  1. Scrub the pumproom and wash all
       equipment, including piping, pump and pressure tank.

  2. Remove the well seal at the top of the
       casing.  Pour a solution of 1 quart laundry bleach and 3 gallons
       of water into the top of the well.  Pour the solution so it
       washes down the inside of the casing and the outside of the drop
     pipes.  In some wells you will need
       only to remove a plug from the seal to pour the solution into
       the well.

  3. Leave the solution in the well about 4
       hours.  Then pump it into the pressure tank and distribution
       system.

  4. Draw the chlorinated water into all
       piping by opening each faucet until the odor of chlorine is
       apparent.  Leave the chlorine in the piping at least 2 hours.
       Then run the water until the taste and odor are no longer
       objectionable.



		Disposing of Animal Carcasses


  1. Prompt and sanitary disposal of animal
       carcasses is necessary to protect the living animals in an area
       from disease.

  2. Search all pastures for dead animals as
       soon as possible.  Carcasses may have some commercial value, so
       send them to a rendering plant if possible.

  3. If rendering is impractical, dispose of
       the dead animals on the premises.  Use the following procedure:

    Immediately after finding a carcass,
       cover it with crude oil or kerosene to keep away dogs, buzzards
       and vermin.  Fat swine are the only animal
       carcasses that will burn satisfactorily.  Used railroad ties can
       be used as starters.

    Bury other carcasses.  Use power
       equipment if it is available.  Choose a site where subsurface
       drainage will not reach water supplies.

    Bury the carcasses at least 3 to 4
       feet deep so predatory animals won't be able to reach them.  If
       quicklime is available, cover carcasses with it before filling.
       Quicklime will hasten decomposition.


  Notes:

		     Additional Resources



  For further information on disaster preparedness or recovery, the
  following resources are suggested:


    Small Business Administration  1-800-827-5722


  Contact your local American Red Cross chapter or write to FEMA, P.O.
  Box 70274, Washington, D.C.  20024 for the following information:


    Your Family Disaster Supplies Kit.  Federal Emergency Management
    Agency brochure
       L-189 and American Red Cross brochure 4463, March 1992.


    Your Family Disaster Plan.  Federal Emergency Management Agency
    brochure L-191
       and American Red Cross brochure 4466, September 1991.


    Emergency Preparedness Checklist.  Federal Emergency Management
    Agency and
       American Red Cross brochure 44471, November 1991.


    Helping Children Cope with Disaster.  Federal Emergency Management
    Agency and
       American Red Cross brochure 4499, September 1992.


    Preparing for Emergencies: A Checklist for People with Mobility
    Problems.  Federal
       Emergency Management Agency brochure L-154(M) and American Red
       Cross brochure 4497, October 1992.


  The following are available from the Federal Emergency Management
  Agency:


    Preparedness for People with Disabilities.  Earthquake Hazard
    Reduction Series 9,
       FEMA 75.


    Are You Ready?  H-34, Item #8-0908.


    Notes:                        Drought


   Drought . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
      Water Conservation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Water
      Conservation at Home . . . . . . . . . . 31 Reading a Water Meter
      To Measure Leaks . . . . 34 Installing a Low-Flow Showerhead . .
      . . . . . 34 Installing Shower Flow Restrictors . . . . . . 34
      Installing Toilet Dams . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Water Saving
      Steps When Remodeling . . . . . . 36 Making Repairs To Toilets To
      Stop Water Loss . 36 Repairing Faucet Leaks . . . . . . . . . . .
      . 37 Adding New Landscape Or Redesigning The Yard . 39 Landscape
      Water Conservation . . . . . . . . . 40 Watering Lawns and Plants
      During a Drought . . 44 Special Considerations for Agricultural
      Producers 45
	 Developing a Crop Water Management Plan . . 45 Crop Water
	 Requirements and Water Use Efficiencies 46 Developing and
	 Improving Vegetative Cover . 48 Maintaining Vegetative Cover.
	 . . . . . . . 49 Managing Salinity . . . . . . . . . . . . .
	 50




			   Drought



		      Water Conservation

  Water conservation is defined as the efficient use of water so that
  unnecessary or wasteful uses are eliminated.  In many areas, more
  groundwater is drawn out of the aquifers each year than is recharged
  through rainfall and stream flow.  As a result, groundwater levels
  have dropped dramatically.  Demand for water from a state's streams
  and reservoirs may rapidly approach the available long-term supply.
  Across many states, many communities are regularly required to limit
  water use at some time during the year.

  While some additional water supplies can be developed by constructing
  new reservoirs, in many locations the demand for water will still
  equal or exceed the available long-term supply.  For these towns and
  cities, water conservation can make the difference between adequate
  supplies and shortages.  Importantly, the way water is used and, in
  some instances, wasted must be rethought.

  This section explains easy ways that water can be conserved and money
  can be saved at the same time.  Useful information is also provided
  on how to measure home water use, how simple repairs can be made, and
  how water-saving devices are installed.  In addition to the measures
  found in this section, also refer to the General Family Preparedness
  section found at the beginning of this handbook.





		  Water Conservation at Home


  There are dozens of ways to conserve water and save money around the
  home.  As a starting point, seven of the easiest ways to reduce water
  use at home are listed below.  These should be part of your everyday
  routine, not just precautionary measures in times of drought.

  1. Install a water-saving showerhead.

    An effective water-saving
       showerhead should have a flow rate of 3 gallons or less a
       minute.  The standard showerhead uses 5 to 10 gallons a minute.
       Therefore, a showerhead using only 2« gallons a minute can save as much as 75 gallons of water during a normal 10-minute shower.

    To determine whether a low-flow
       showerhead needs to be installed, check the flow rate of the
       current showerhead by using the water meter or by putting a
       gallon container under the showerhead while the water is on and
       measuring the time it takes to fill the container at the usual
       shower setting.  If it fills in less than 20 seconds, the flow
       is greater than 3 gallons per minute.

    Low-flow showerheads can be
       purchased at most department, hardware and plumbing stores.

    Models costing from under $3 are
       available.  A showerhead can usually be installed in 10
       minutes.

  2. Place displacement devices in the
       toilet.

     Three types of displacement devices can
       be used in toilets, but they should
	  not be used in newer, low-water
	    use toilets which use less than 3« gallons per flush.

    To determine the capacity of the
       toilet tank, either turn off the water supply valve to the
       toilet (usually located on the pipe behind the toilet) or hold
       the float ball up so that the tank does not refill, and flush
       the toilet.  Measure the capacity of the tank by filling it to
       the normal level with a gallon container.

    Toilet dams can be installed in
       toilet tanks to reduce the amount of water used, typically
       saving « to 2 gallons per flush.  Toilet dams are available from many utilities or from most plumbing supply stores from under $5 per pair.

    A plastic bottle filled with water
       and weighted down with a few stones can accomplish the same
       purpose as dams.  It is important to place the bottle in the
       toilet tank where it will not interfere with the flushing
       mechanism.  A plastic bottle in the tank will save « to 1 gallon per flush.

    A toilet bag which is available free
       of charge from many utilities, can also be used in place of
       dams.  A displacement bag in the tank will save « to 1 gallon per flush.

    Bricks should not be used in the
       tank because small pieces can break off and permanently damage
       the plumbing system.

		      (continued next page) Water Conservation At Home
			 (continued)


  3. Install faucet aerators.

    The standard faucet flow rate is 5
       gallons a minute.  A low-flow aerator can reduce this flow to
       ap- proximately 2« gallons a minute while still providing adequate water for washing and rinsing.  Installing aerators on the kitchen sink and lavatory faucets will save hot water and cut water use by as much as 60 gallons a month for a typical family of four.

    Most aerators have either internal
       or external threads.  Before purchasing aerators, the location
       of the threads and the diameter of each spout should be
       determined.

    If the faucet already has a standard
       aerator (not a low-flow type), it can be removed and taken to
       the store to ensure that the correct low-flow size is
       purchased.  Aerators are available for less than a dollar from
       most stores that sell plumbing fixtures.

    If the kitchen has a portable
       dishwasher that must be connected to the faucet, do not install
       a low-flow aerator because the reduced flow may affect the
       performance of the dishwasher and result in dishes that are not
       properly cleaned.

  4. Change your water use patterns.

    The washing machine and dish-
       washer should only be used when fully loaded.  This practice can
       save at least two loads or approximately 60 gallons each week.
  5. Examine personal water use habits.

    Changing tooth brushing habits can
       save as much as 14 gallons of water a day.  Instead of allowing
       the tap water to run while brushing, use a cup, and run the tap
       just to rinse the toothbrush.

    The same method can be used to
       conserve additional water when shaving, washing hands or taking
       a shower.

    Use a pan when washing vegetables
       or rinsing dishes in the kitchen instead of running water
       constantly.

  6. Find water leaks.

     According to water utilities, leaks can
       easily account for 10 percent of a water bill and waste both
       water and energy if the source is a hot water tap.

    Toilet Leaks.  When a toilet leaks,
       water escapes from the tank into the bowl.  Toilets are
       notorious for hidden or silent leaks, because leaks are seldom
       noticed unless the toilet "runs" after each flush (which can
       waste 4 to 5 gallons a minute).

     To determine if the toilet is leaking, look
       first at the toilet bowl after the tank has stopped filling.  If
       water is still running into the bowl or if water can be heard
       running, the toilet is leaking.

     Often the toilet may have a "silent leak."
       To test for a silent leak, mix a few drops of food coloring or
       place a

		      (continued next page) Water Conservation At Home
			 (continued)


     dye capsule or tablet (available from
       many utilities and hardware stores) into the water in the toilet
       tank after the water has stopped filling and the tank is full.
       Do Not flush the toilet.  Wait for about 10 minutes, and if the
       dye or food coloring appears in the toilet bowl, the toilet has
       a silent leak.

     Leaks of this type usually are caused by
       a defective flush valve (flapper) ball or a corroded or scaled
       valve seat.  Replacement balls and valves, which can be
       installed in less than 30 minutes, are available from most
       hardware and plumbing stores for under $3.

    Faucet Leaks.  Faucet leaks are
       obvious.  However, periodically check seldom used taps in the
       basement or outside the house.  The cause of faucet leaks is
       frequently a worn washer that can be replaced with two or three
       hand tools.  Replacement washers can be purchased from most
       hardware and variety stores and cost only a few cents.

  7. Use efficient outside watering
       practices.

    Plant native vegetation.  Once
       established, which usually takes two years, these plants require
       less frequent watering.  Water grass only when needed.  If
       grass springs up after being walked on, it does not need
       watering.

    Soak grass long enough for water
       to reach the roots.  Water slowly and deeply.

    Water during the cool, early
       morning hours to minimize water loss by evaporation and
       discourage disease.  Do not water on windy days.

    Use sprinklers that produce
       droplets instead of mist and that have a low trajectory.  This
       type of sprinkler will lose less water by evaporation and be
       less affected by the wind.

    Use drip irrigation systems for
       shrubs, flowerbeds and other frequently watered areas.

    During the summer, keep the grass
       about 2 to 3 inches high.  This height shades the root system
       and holds soil moisture better than does a closely clipped
       lawn.

    Do not water streets and sidewalks.
       Adjust the hose or sprinkler until it waters just the grass or
       shrubs.  For flowerbeds, shrubs and trees, use drip or soaker
       systems.




    Notes:
	    Reading a Water Meter To Measure Leaks


  If your house has a water meter, the entire plumbing system can be
  checked for an undetected leak in five easy steps:

  1. Find the water meter.  (It may be
       outdoors or hidden in a dark corner of the basement.)

  2. Turn off all running water and
       water-using appliances, and do not flush the toilet.

  3. Read the dial (or dials) and record the
       reading.  4. After 15 to 20 minutes, re-check the
       meter.

  5. If no water has been turned on or used
       and the reading has changed, a leak is occurring.  The rate
       (gallons per minute) of the leak can be determined by dividing
       the number of gallons by the elapsed time.

  6. If the leak cannot be found and fixed, a
       plumber should be called.  Before calling, check all toilets for
       silent leaks.



	       Installing a Low-Flow Showerhead
		      To Conserve Water


  1. In some cases, a newly purchased low-flow showerhead may not fit
  on the
       existing pipe.  This is often the case when the neck ends in a
       ball joint.

     Most necks can be unscrewed and
       replaced, or an adaptor can be used.  Adapters or replacement
       necks are readily available in plumbing and most hardware
       stores.  2. When installing the new showerhead,
       teflon tape or pipe joint compound could be applied to the
       exposed threads of the new neck so that the joint will be sealed
       and provide a leakproof connection.

  3. If the shower neck has been on for a few
       years and the neck joint is too stiff to unscrew with moderate
       pressure, consider having a plumber replace it.



	      Installing Shower Flow Restrictors
		      to Conserve Water


    Restricting devices fit into the space
       between the showerhead and the shower neck.  These devices range
       from a simple washer with a small hole in it to small
       chrome-plated pressure compensating fittings.  While restrictors
    reduce water flow,
       low-flow showerheads produce a flow that is more satisfying to
       most individuals.


  Notes:

	   Installing Toilet Dams, Toilet Bags and
	      Plastic Bottles to Conserve Water


  Many of the toilets in homes today use from 5 to 7 gallons per
  flush.  Several effective retrofit devices are available that can
  reduce the volume of water used with each flush by 2 to 3 gallons.

  While these devices can be used in some of the low-flush toilets on
  the market today that use from 3 to 4 gallons per flush, they
  generally perform better when used in the older 5- to 7-gallon per
  flush models.

  The height of water in the toilet tank (not just the volume) causes
  the bowl to flush, so the purpose of displacement devices is to
  reduce the volume of water used in each flush without affecting water
  height in the tank.  The following three types of devices have proven
  to be effective.

  1. Toilet Dams:

    To install a dam, flex or bend the
       dam and insert it into the tank.

    The dam should fit tightly against
       the tank sides and bottom and should curve outward away from the
       plumbing fixtures in the tank.  Most tanks work best when a
       single dam is used.  2. Toilet Bags:

    Fill the bag with water, securely
       seal the top of the bag with the bag clamp and hang the bag in
       the tank by using the bag clip and hanger that are provided.

    Make sure the bag is located in the
       tank so it does not interfere with the operation of the toilet
       tank.

  3. Plastic Bottles:

    Fill a plastic bottle with water and
       weight down with a few stones, and place in the most open
       portion of the tank.  This will save as much water as is
       displaced by the bottle.

    Make sure the bottle does not
       interfere with the operation of the moving parts of the tank.

  Check all such devices periodically to ensure that they remain in
  place.


    Notes:
	    Water Saving Steps When Remodeling or
	      Replacing Fixtures and Appliances


  1. Hot Water Pipes.

     Where possible, insulate hot water pipes
       from the hot water heater to fixtures and appliances.  This will
       reduce the time between turning the water on and the time hot
       water comes out of the faucet and reaches a constant
       temperature.

  2. New or Replacement Fixtures and
       Appliances.

     Install low-water use fixtures when
       remodeling or replacing fixtures.

    Install toilets that use 3« gallons or
       less per flush.  Install low-flow showerheads that
       flow at 3 gallons or less per minute.

    Install water-saving dishwashing
       and clothes-washing machines.  Be sure to check the water
       efficiency of appliances when shopping for replacement
       appliances.

  3. Pools and Hot Tubs.

    Run the filter backwash onto the
       lawn rather than down the sewer.

    Purchase covers for hot tubs and
       pool to reduce evaporation losses.



	 Making Repairs To Toilets To Stop Water Loss


  Some types of toilet leaks are relatively easy to fix.  Other leaks
  may require the services of a plumber.  Several simple repair steps
  that can be done without contacting a plumber are listed below.

  1. If the water is too high in the toilet tank
       and is spilling into the overflow tube, the float can be
       adjusted by turning the adjustment screw or by very gently
       bending the float arm down so that the water shuts off at a
       level slightly below the top of the overflow tube.

     Ideally, the water level should be set so
       that it is about even with the fill line on the back of the
       toilet tank.

  2. A frequent problem that causes a toilet
       to leak is a worn flapper ball or a flapper ball that does not
       seat properly into the valve seat.  If the flapper ball is worn,
       it can be removed and replaced with a new
       flapper ball.

     When replacing a flapper ball, take care
       to note how the chain is adjusted before the old ball is
       removed.  Also, check the valve seat for scale or corrosion and
       clean if necessary.  If cleaning does not work, install a
       retrofit valve seat, available from most plumbing or hardware
       stores.

  3. If the handle needs to be jiggled to keep
       the toilet from "running," the guide-wire or the handle itself
       may be sticking.  If the handle is sticking, adjust the nut that
       secures it in the toilet tank.  If that does not work, replace
       the handle.

  4. If none of the preceding steps solve the
       problem, contact a plumber to repair the toilet.


		    Repairing Faucet Leaks


  1. Leaky faucets, which can develop even
       in new houses, are wasteful and a nuisance.  With a few simple
       tools, a leaky faucet can be repaired in less than an hour.

  2. Most water faucets in houses today are
       compression-type units in which a washer is compressed over a
       pipe opening when the faucet is closed, thus closing off the
       water.

     All compression-type faucets may not
       look alike, but all are similar in their operation and repair.

  3. The exact point where a leak appears on
       a faucet is a good clue to finding its cause:

    A spout drip is usually caused by a
       worn upper faucet washer or a corroded seat.

    Leaks at the stem result from a
       loose cap nut or worn cone or bonnet packing.

    A cap leak, or water oozing below
       the cap nut, indicates a worn bib or packing washer.

    A leak at the base of the faucet
       results from water seeping past a worn lower faucet washer.

  4. To repair a leaky compression type
       faucet, use the following steps:

    Turn off the water supply at the
       valve nearest the faucet.  Next, open the tap to drain the
       faucet.

    Remove the handle screw and lift
       handle off the spindle.  Unscrew the cap nut.  Use a
       protective cover of adhesive tape or a rag to avoid marring the
       finish.

    Unscrew the stem with finger
       pressure and lift it out.

    Remove the screw from the bottom
       end of the spindle.  Scrape away all worn washer parts.  Be
       careful not to damage the rim.  Install a new washer.  (Take
       either the old washer or the complete spindle unit with you to
       purchase the correct size and shape (flat or conical)
       replacement washer.) Double-check to make sure the replacement
       is like the worn washer.

    Check the seat (which is located
       down inside the faucet) to make sure it is not pitted or rough.
       If the seat is scarred or rough, use a seat-dressing kit to
       grind the seat to a smooth finish.

    A leak at the stem usually means
       that the packing inside the cap nut needs replacing.  To replace
       the packing, pry out the old packing washer with a screwdriver.
       If a washer is used, replace it with a new one.  If there is no
       washer, wrap the spindle tightly with "packing wicking."  String
       can be used if commercial wicking is not available.

    Reassemble the faucet.  Tighten the
       cap nut just enough to prevent leaking.  Screwing the nut down
       too tightly causes rapid wear on the stem.

		      (continued next page) Repairing Faucet Leaks
			 (continued)


    Turn the shutoff valves to the on
       position and check the faucet for leaks.

  5. A mixing faucet may look more
       complicated than a single faucet, but repairs are made in much
       the same way.

    Actually, a mixing faucet is two
       separate units with a single spout.

    Mixing faucets are used on sinks,
       bathtubs and laundry tubs.  Repairs must be made separately on
       each faucet unit.  Follow the same steps listed above,
       but remember to turn off the water before beginning work.

  6. Every washerless and single-lever faucet
       model is a little different.  When repairs are required,
       homeowners can purchase a repair kit for their model which
       includes instructions and the parts that generally will be
       worn.  By replacing all the parts at once, the faucet should
       function for several years without needing further repair.


    Notes:
	 Adding New Landscape Or Redesigning The Yard
		      To Conserve Water


  When planning to add new landscaping or to redesign existing
  landscaping, the following suggestions may help you to save 50
  percent or more of the water needed to maintain a traditional lawn.

  1. If hiring a landscape architect or
       gardener, select one who is experienced in Xeriscape, the
       conservation of water and energy through creative landscaping.

  2. Design the yard to reduce the grassed
       areas to only that amount which will actually be used for
       recreation and entertainment.  Front and side yards are most
       frequently just for show and are logical areas that can be
       completely or partially converted from lawns to native grasses,
       ground covers and shrubs.

  3. Use native grasses, ground covers,
       shrubs and trees.  Many beautiful varieties of native species
       can be used in landscaping and are preferable to imported
       species.

     The advantage of native species is that,
       once they are established (usually about 2 years), they do not
       need to be watered as frequently (about   to « as often), and they can survive a dry period without any watering.

  4. When installing an irrigation system for
       lawn, shrubs and trees, sprinkler heads for the lawn should be
       low-angle spray heads that sprinkle the grass without spraying
       the water high into the air or allowing the water to drift onto
       the sidewalks and streets.  The heads should produce droplets of
       water instead of a mist.  The preferable irrigation system for
       shrub beds and trees is a drip-type system.  There are several
       varieties, including soaker hoses, bubblers and "leaky pipe."

  If a sprinkler system is installed for shrubs, an upright pipe
  extension may be needed if low-angle spray heads are to be used.
  This is done to spray evenly without obstructions.

    Automatic controls will allow the
       proper watering time and minimize waste.

    Regular spacing between spray
       heads will provide uniform coverage.

     For more information, contact a
       licensed landscape irrigator or a reputable dealer.

  5. Shape the soil to protect against erosion
       and use conditioners to promote water penetration and
       retention.

    Shape the soil into earthen basins
       around all shrubs.

    If the original soil is rocky, shallow
       or a heavy clay, improve the soil by adding 2 to 4 inches of
       organic material or topsoil that is compatible with the soil
       type.

  6. Watering needs vary:

    Plants: During summer month,
       most plants will need about 1 inch of water every 5 to 7 days.

    Lawns: The frequency of watering
       depends on the type of grass.

		      (continued next page) Landscape Water
		 Conservation


  A water conscious landscape design can reduce water use for landscape
  maintenance by 50 percent or more and also reduce the amount of
  maintenance required.  Of equal importance, the natural beauty and
  function of the landscape also can be preserved by using adapted
  plant materials.

  1. By using plant materials adapted to
       specific areas, water needs for landscape maintenance can be
       reduced by more than 50 percent.

    Water conscious landscaping
       involves more than just using adapted plant materials it
       includes the use of other conservation techniques and
       practices.

    Water saving practices include the
       use of low pressure drip or trickle irrigation systems for
       watering trees, shrubs, gardens and individual plants or beds;
       the use of mulches around shrubs, beds and gardens to conserve
       water; the use of bark, rock or other landscape material in
       ground cover in areas difficult to water or in areas where
       plants are not needed; the use of vegetative groundcovers such
       as ivy, jasmine, liriope and vinca in small, isolated areas,
       sloping sites that are difficult to water and in heavily shaded
       sites.

  2. Water conscious landscape designs
       minimize intensively maintained lawn space.  Manicured lawn
       areas may be the focal point of the landscape, but they do not
       need to cover the entire area unless the lawn is used as a
       playground or sports field.  Highly maintained grass areas
       generally require more irrigation than any other component of
       the landscape.  On golf courses, for example, only the landing
       areas need to be intensively maintained.  Rough areas may have a
       more drought tolerant grass, taller mowing heights and a
       separate water system.

    Large open areas of the landscape
       where a grass cover is needed can be planted to low maintenance
       grasses such as buffalograss, centipede grass or bahiagrass.
       Native plants and wildflowers also can be allowed to develop in
       these areas.

    Such plantings require very little
       maintenance and no supplemental water once they become
       established.

  3. Proper site preparation will produce a
       more beautiful landscape and result in more efficient water
       utilization.

    Slopes, areas with shallow topsoil,
       compacted soils and deep sands are difficult sites to establish
       grass and are inefficient with respect to water use.

    Modifying or amending the sites
       before planting is more effective than waiting until problems
       develop.

		      (continued next page) Landscape Water
		 Conservation
			 (continued)


  4. As the foundation is the strength of a
       building, the seedbed is the support for a turf.  The seedbed
       refers to the few surface inches of soil that are modified prior
       to planting.

    Poor soil conditions result in
       continuous turf maintenance problems.

    To prepare a seedbed, first remove
       all debris such as large stones, wood or other trash that may
       have been left after construction.

    Next, the nature of the soil may
       need to be altered.  A sandy loam soil high in organic matter is
       best for turf.  If the original surface soil is a heavy clay or
       a fine sand, add organic matter to improve soil structure.  This
       organic material can be peat, compost, decomposed gin trash,
       rice hulls, bark or sawdust (preferably hardwood), leaf mold or
       similar material.  Thoroughly mix 1 inch of organic matter with
       the top 3 to 4 inches of soil to produce a uniform seedbed.

    This mixing can be done by
       repeated cultivation with a garden tiller or with a tractor and
       rotovator.

    When adding un-decomposed
       organic matter to the soil, also add 3 pounds of ammonium
       nitrate or 5 pounds of ammonium sulfate per 1,000 square feet to
       aid decomposition of the organic material.  Most soils are
    deficient in the
       major nutrients required for turf.  Sandy soils normally are
       deficient in nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and lime.  In the
       blackland areas, nitrogen and phosphorus may not be adequate for
       good turf development.  Potassium in the soil may become
       deficient for turf growth when high amounts of nitrogen are used
       in areas not normally deficient in potassium.

    If possible, base rates and
       combinations of fertilizer nutrients on the results of soil
       tests.  In the absence of a soil test, apply a complete
       fertilizer to the surface of the seedbed.  Apply a fertilizer
       with a 1-2-1 (10-20-10, 6-12-6) or 1 (8-8-8) ratio at a rate to
       supply 1 pound of phosphorus per 1,000 square feet of lawn.

    Grade the seedbed to provide
       surface drainage away from structures, walks and driveways.  A
       fall of 6 inches for every 40 to 50 surface feet is adequate for
       drainage on sandy soils, provided no pockets or depressions
       exist.

    Clay or clay loam soils may require
       twice that slope to provide adequate surface drainage.  In some
       cases, subsurface drainage systems may be needed to remove
       excess water from poorly drained sites.

    If a considerable part of the
       landscape needs to be filled, use a loam or sandy loam soil.
       Repeated wetting of the filled site will help settle the soil.

		      (continued next page) Landscape Water
		 Conservation
			 (continued)


    The final step in seedbed prep-
       aration is raking the surface to remove large clods and stones.
       At the same time, fill depressions that have developed and level
       high spots.  Walks and driveways should be about 1 inch above
       the final soil surface.  The site is now ready to be seeded,
       sprigged or sodded.

  5. Conservation and reduced maintenance
       costs are enhanced by good cultural practices.  By some
       estimates as much as 50 percent of the water used for landscape
       maintenance is wasted through run-off and evaporation.

    Proper timing and method of
       application will reduce much of this water loss.

    The most important water conserv-
       ing practice is to water only when grasses show symptoms of
       water stress.

    Grasses wilt and begin to go off
       color when under moisture stress.  Shrubs and small trees wilt
       and begin to drop their leaves under moisture stress.  Ideally,
       water shrubs before the first sign of moisture stress.

    When water is needed, thoroughly
       wet the soil 4 to 6 inches deep by applying water slowly or at
       intervals to avoid run-off.  One inch of water, properly
       applied, will wet most soils 4 to 6 inches deep.  (One inch of
       water is equivalent to 62 gallons per 100 square feet.) During
    summer months an inch of
       water will meet most plant needs for 4 or 5 days.  But wait
       until the plants (or grass) show moisture stress before watering
       again.  Early morning dew, cooler temperatures or rain may
       extend the interval between irrigations several days.

  6. Mowing is the key to maintaining neat,
       attractive turf areas.  Low maintenance grasses such as
       buffalograss require less mowing than bermudagrass or St.
       Augustine.  But regular mowing will improve the density and
       uniformity of all turf areas.

    During the growing season, weekly
       mowing is ideal for lawn areas.  When mowed weekly, there is
       seldom a need to pick up grass clippings.  The clippings break
       down rapidly in the lawn and recycle plant nutrients.  When
       clippings are picked up, they can be composted or used for mulch
       in gardens.

    During hot, dry conditions raise
       mowing heights to reduce water needs.  Grass mowed at 2 to 3
       inches maintains a deeper root system than grass mowed at 1
       inch.  Supplemental water needs are reduced with more effective
       use of water in the soil by deep rooted grasses.  Mow St.
       Augustine, bluegrass and tall fescue lawns at 3 inches during
       drought conditions.  Do not mow bermudagrass and zoysia higher
       than 2 inches.



		      (continued next page) Landscape Water
		 Conservation
			 (continued)


  7. Thatch, the organic layer between the
       soil and the green leaves, can slow water movement into the soil
       and cause excess run-off.

    Thatch accumulation results from
       heavy fertilization, improper mowing practices, over watering
       and frequent pesticide use.

    Aeration and thatch removal
       increase water penetration and reduce run-off.  Under some
       conditions wetting agents (surfactants) improve water
       penetration in a heavily thatched lawn.

    Water movement into the root zone
       is even more difficult where compaction develops.  Aeration of
       compacted soils once or twice a year helps break up the
       compacted layer and increases water penetration.  Aeration also
       reduces run-off from sloping sites.  8. In soils containing high
  levels of sodium
       salts, gypsum can aid water penetration.  Soil test information
       available through county Extension agents can reveal the
       presence of high levels of sodium.  Like the other three factors
       affecting water use, the quality of the water used can influence
       the amount of water needed to keep a turf healthy.

    Where salt is a problem, it is
       important to thoroughly wet the soil during each application.
       Light, frequent applications of water high in salts result in an
       accumulation of salts near the surface.  Thorough watering helps
       move the salts below the root zone of grasses.


    Notes:
	  Watering Lawns and Plants During a Drought


  1. If water is rationed during a drought,
       give priority to shrubs that are more expensive and harder to
       replace than grass and annual plants.  2. During a severe
  drought when outside
       watering is prohibited, water plants with "gray water" saved
       from bathing, dishwashing and clothes washing, if this is
       permitted by the city or local health department.


  Notes:

      Special Considerations for Agricultural Producers




  In addition to the precautions and responses covered in the previous
  pages, the agricultural producer will want to consider the following
  measures.




	   Developing a Crop Water Management Plan


  Develop a water management system before you are faced with a drought
  situation.

  1. Water Use Efficiency

    In areas where water supply is
       limited or expensive, it is economically important for farmers
       to attain high water use efficiency as well as high yields.
       Water use efficiency values can be calculated in several ways
       and should be clearly defined to avoid misinterpretation.

    Water use efficiency for a crop and
       irrigation system can be expressed as crop yield (pounds) per
       unit of water applied to or actually used by the crop
       (acre-inches).  2. Rainfall Patterns

    Average monthly rainfall data can
       be misleading because large variations occur.  Therefore,
       percent probability that a certain rainfall amount will occur is
       a better way of assessing risk.

    Dryland crops should be grown
       during periods of high rainfall probabilities to allow more of
       the rainfall to be used for evapotranspiration.



    Notes:
      Crop Water Requirements and Water Use Efficiencies


  Experimental results for yield and water use efficiency have varied,
  but many common water management principles have emerged and are
  receiving widespread application by farmers.  Limited irrigation is
  now being widely practiced on drought tolerant crops to take
  advantage of expected rainfall.

  1. Sorghum

    Sorghum has good ability to adjust
       to water stress.  Sorghum requires 13 to 24 inches of seasonal
       water use (evapotranspiration) from precipitation, stored soil
       moisture and irrigation to achieve grain yields of 3,000 to
       6,700 pounds per acre.

    Dryland sorghum yields an average
       of about 1,600 pounds per acre, although yields of up to 3,000
       pounds per acre are not uncommon during high rainfall years.

    Pre-plant irrigation is often not
       needed and may be inefficiently applied, especially when using
       conventional graded furrow irrigation systems.

    The same amount of water may be
       more efficiently used if applied at later stages of crop
       growth.

    Conservation tillage can reduce the
       need for pre-plant irrigation of sorghum through improved soil
       moisture storage.

    Irrigations should be timed to avoid
       water stress during periods of peak water use (boot, heading
	  and flowering stages) to achieve
	    reasonably good yields and maximum irrigation water use
	    efficiency.

    Two well-timed seasonal irrigations
       of 4 inches per application or the equivalent are adequate in
       normal years for good yields of medium maturity hybrids.  Saving
       irrigation water by withholding a 4-inch irrigation reduces
       sorghum grain yields by only about 10 percent during the early
       6- to 8-leaf stage but by almost 50 percent if withheld at the
       heading and bloom stage.

  2. Corn

    Corn is much more sensitive to
       water stress than sorghum, wheat or cotton.  Corn is planted
       earlier than sorghum and typically allows more efficient use of
       the May-June wet season than sorghum.

    The early planting date required for
       corn increases the need for pre-plant irrigation for stand
       establishment.  The total seasonal water use to achieve any corn
       grain yield is about 13 inches.

    Pre-plant irrigation is often
       necessary.  Drought seasons require one or two additional
       irrigations.

    Moisture stress caused by low soil
       water availability or hot, dry conditions during the flowering
       stage (which includes tasseling, silking and pollination) can
       severely restrict corn yield.

		      (continued next page)
      Crop Water Requirements and Water Use Efficiencies
			 (continued)


    Reduced irrigation of corn has
       generally resulted in significant yield decreases. Planned water
       deficits into the stress range are not recommended and may be
       feasible only on soils with moderate to high water storage and
       during the early vegetative or grain ripening stages.

    Reduced acreage, rather than
       reduced irrigation, offers the best way to adjust corn
       irrigation to limited water supplies.

  3. Wheat

    Winter wheat is a major drought-tolerant crop that grows vegeta-
       tively during the normal dry period from fall to early spring
       and develops grain during a period of increasing spring
       rainfall. Wheat is normally planted around October 1 and
       requires available soil moisture from irrigation or
       precipitation for germination and early growth.

    Wheat also should receive one late
       fall irrigation followed by two to three spring irrigations for
       high grain yields. One additional early irrigation (together
       with additional applied fertilizer) is usually needed for early
       planted wheat that is grazed and also managed for grain
       production.

    The highest wheat yield response to
       irrigation usually occurs during jointing and boot stages. These
       stages also coincide with a period of relatively low probability
       of rainfall.

    The least efficient irrigation is
       during grain filling, which
	  normally is associated with
	    increased rainfall.

  4. Cotton

    Cotton is a drought-tolerant,
       long-season crop that lends itself to limited irrigation despite
       a somewhat complicated pattern of water use, deficits and
       application.

    Early fruit set is important in cotton
       production.  However, the production, placement and retention of
       fruiting sites are sensitive to soil water availability.

    Under dryland conditions, expected
       lint yields are in the range of 250 to 300 pounds per acre.
       Cotton requires more than 13 inches of seasonal water use to
       produce appreciable lint yields.

    High levels of water application can
       decrease lint yield by causing excessive vegetative development
       and fall immaturity.

    A pre-plant irrigation of 4 inches is
       usually advantageous, especially if spring rainfall is not
       adequate, but heavier pre-plant irrigations are not warranted.

    Cotton has the ability to overcome
       moisture stress at most growth stages if water becomes available
       and low temperatures do not limit growth.

    The most critical period for
       irrigation is early to mid-bloom.  If water is available, a
       second irrigation should be applied at peak to late bloom.


	  Developing and Improving Vegetative Cover


  1. Good cover (standing vegetation and
       mulch) lessens the impact of rain that dislodges soil particles,
       and thus reduces the amount of sediment in surface run-off.
       Good cover also slows the movement of run-off so that more water
       soaks into the soil and more sediment is deposited on the
       grazing land rather than being carried into streams or ponds.
       Vegetative cover also entraps manure and prevents pollution of
       streams with animal waste.

  2. Best management practices for
       preventing nonpoint source pollution from grazing lands include
       locating animal holding pens and feeding areas away from streams
       and other hydrologically sensitive areas, and establishing and
       maintaining good vegetative cover.

  3. The amount and type of vegetation
       present significantly influence the rate of infiltration of
       water.  Standing vegetation and a mulch or litter
       layer increase infiltration.  Organic matter in the surface soil
       improves soil aggregation, making it easier for water to move
       through the soil.

  4. Pores in the soil created by plant roots
       increase the rate at which water can enter the soil by providing
       pathways for water movement.  Long-lived, perennial bunchgrasses
       have deeper root systems than sodgrasses and allow water to move
       deeper.

  5. The height of grass also affects water
       movement.  Water moves more rapidly across closely grazed grass
       than grasses left with several inches of stubble.

  6. If the watershed has been severely
       overgrazed, the vegetative cover will need to be improved by
       controlling undesirable plants such as broadleaf weeds and
       shrubs and/or seeding desirable plants.


    Notes:
		 Maintaining Vegetative Cover


  1. If at least 10 to 15 percent of the
       desirable vegetation is present, the most practical and
       economical way to maintain a desirable vegetative cover is
       through proper grazing management.

    The key to proper grazing
       management is to balance the number of grazing animals with the
       forage produced.  The proper balance will leave a sufficient
       amount of plant residue to maintain stored food reserves, plant
       vigor, a healthy root system and seed production of the desired
       plants.

    It also allows seedlings to become
       established.

  2. For planning purposes, an appropriate
       long-term stocking rate may be determined based on the "take
       half and leave half" rule of thumb.  However, a more realistic
       approach is to manage the grazing stocking rate so that a given
       amount of residue is left prior to resumption of growth in the
       spring.

     The amount of residue required will
       vary according to the area of the state and the vegetation
       types.  For example, 300 pounds of plant residue may be adequate
       for a semi-arid area with short-grass vegetation, while 1,200
       pounds of residue may be required in a more humid area with
       tall-grass vegetation.

  3. It also is important to properly distribute
       animals over the grazing land.  Poor distribution may result in
     extreme overgrazing of one area and
       little use of another in the same unit.  Often these overgrazed
       areas are located near water, thus increasing the potential for
       pollution.

     Practices which contribute to proper
       grazing distribution include the development and strategic
       placement of water sources, construction of fences, strategic
       location of salt and feeding sites, building of trails,
       fertilization, prescribed burning and spot seeding.

  4. Plants benefit from periods of no
       grazing.  Deferment from grazing is particularly useful on areas
       where vegetation needs to be improved.

  5. Planned grazing systems divide an area
       into two or more grazing units to allow periods of grazing and
       rest from grazing in a sequence determined by management
       objectives, physiological needs of the plants and the design of
       the system.

    Grazing systems may include as
       few as 2 or as many as 30 or more grazing units.

    Some temporary soil compaction
       may occur with systems that concentrate animals in a small area
       for short periods of time.  However, if the period is short, the
       soil will recover rapidly from the compaction.  A planned
       grazing system makes more effective use of forage and, combined
       with the proper stocking rate, protects desirable range plants
       and water quality.

  Notes:

		      Managing Salinity


  Salinity problems normally occur in arid or semi-arid climatic
  regions.  Salinity is a major nonpoint source pollutant in the west
  as irrigation return flows can carry dissolved salts into waterways.
  In humid climates, soluble salts are generally leached downward
  through the soil profile where they cannot cause problems.

  In general, accumulation of salt results from water evaporation at
  the soil surface.  This condition can render land vegetatively
  nonproductive, and may lead to nonpoint source pollution through
  erosion and sedimentation.  Further, the salt concentration may run
  off during a storm and affect adjacent lands.  These problems
  normally occur where either surface seep areas appear or where a high
  water table exists in the soil profile.

  Sometimes rainfall moves through the ground to the water table or to
  a barrier above the water table.  Here it accumulates and moves
  laterally, often parallel with the land slope, toward an outlet or
  low point in the landscape.  It then forms a wet weather or saline
  seep.  During the summer or periods of low rainfall, such seepage
  spots may completely dry out.  Only detailed analyses of borings,
  soils and surveys can establish the source and amount of groundwater
  contributing to seep areas.

  1. Irrigated land in arid areas sometimes
       must be drained to prevent or reduce salinity problems.
       Topographic surveys and subsurface investigations should be made
       to obtain information on the soils, geology and water table
       elevations.  These data are the basis for determining the extent
       of the problem and for setting design parameters.  2. Plant
  nutrients and pesticides should be
       applied in such a manner as to limit the potential for
       contamination of surface and groundwater supplies by outflow
       from drainage systems.

  3. One alternative treatment is to establish
       permanent salt tolerant species such as bermudagrass, aikali
       sacaton, gramas and kleingrass.  Salt tolerant species will
       allow a vegetative cover where bare ground would otherwise lead
       to water quality problems.

  4. Cropping with salt tolerant, seasonal
       species such as cotton or small grains assists in addressing the
       problem of saline soils.  Planting high water use crops such as
       alfalfa, four-wing saltbush or trees above a seep area helps
       control the amount of moisture that accumulates.

  5. Organic or inorganic additives to the soil
       surface will increase water infiltration.  This will allow water
       to force dissolved salts below the root zones and prevent
       further concentration of salts on the soil surface.

    Organic amendments include cotton
       burs and gin "trash" that may be obtained from cotton processing
       facilities.

    Inorganic agents to increase soil
       tilth include gypsum or calcium sulfate.



		    (continued next page)

		      Managing Salinity
			 (continued)


  6. Land alterations are sometimes used to
       alleviate salinity problems.  Such constructed systems have a
       place in salinity control, but use caution when implementing
       them.  In some cases, altering the land surface by smoothing or
       grading may eliminate the effects of the problem by confining
       the seep area or providing natural surface drainage.

     Practices such as closed-end terraces or
       basin terraces which impound water can be used on areas with
       minimal seepage, but should be scrutinized where they might
       contribute to problems associated with saline seeps.  When seeps
       threaten downstream water quality, installing a fresh water
       interceptor drain above the seep may be an alternative
       treatment.

  7. Drainage may be used in severe cases of
       salinity.  The location of a suitable outlet and the quality of
       discharge and receiving waters is crucial in considering either
       a surface or subsurface drain.  Surface drainage can be
       accomplished by several methods, depending on the conditions at
       the site.

    A surface drainage system may be
       the least expensive alternative, but potential maintenance
       problems and obstructions to farming operations should be
       considered.  Maintaining water quality of any discharge waters
       is of utmost importance.  Most subsurface drainage uses
       corrugated plastic tubing installed with a synthetic filter
       envelope.  Again, as with any other drainage system, an adequate
       outlet is imperative, especially considering the discharge water
       quality in comparison to receiving waters.

  8. Irrigation water management is
       important on saline soils.  Salt accumulates in soils because of
       salts in irrigation water or the presence of a high water
       table.  To prevent harmful accumulation of salts in soils
       irrigated with saline water, an additional quantity of water,
       above that required for the crop, must be passed through the
       root zone to leach salt from the soil.

     A high water table contributes to salt
       accumulation because capillary action causes water and soluble
       salts to rise to the soil surface.  There the water evaporates,
       leaving behind salt deposits.  Enough water must be applied
       periodically to leach out accumulated salts without excessive
       waste of water.  If a seep area could be made worse by applying
       liquid agricultural waste, proper management must be used,
       including nutrient management.


			  Earthquakes



   Earthquakes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
      How Earthquakes are Measured . . . . . . . . . 52 Preparing for
      an Earthquake. . . . . . . . . . 53 During an Earthquake . . . .
      . . . . . . . . . 54 Responses Inside Buildings During an
      Earthquake 55 Responses if You are Outside During an Earthquake
      55 After an Earthquake. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Special
      Considerations for Agricultural Producers 57




			 Earthquakes



  The crust of the earth is made up of seven masses called tectonic
  plates.  They are in steady motion.  Accumulated stress builds up
  from the continental plates grinding, sliding or colliding against or
  slipping under each other.  Pressure is released in a powerful
  explosion of energy that fractures the earth's surface, shakes the
  ground, causes the ground to roll, liquefies some soil and generates
  giant water waves.

  When an earthquake will unleash its force remains unpredictable.
  Preliminary cracks may send off foreshocks before a main fracture.
  These foreshocks can occur months or minutes before the rapid onset
  of the earthquake.  An earthquake lasts for seconds or minutes, while
  aftershocks may occur for months after the main earthquake.

  Powerful and widespread ruptures or shaking ground can cause
  buildings to move off their foundations or collapse; damage utility
  lines, other structures and roads; set off fires; and threaten the
  lives of people and animals.  It is the damage to structures that
  presents the greatest risks to life and property.

  Earthquakes create a trigger for other natural hazards such as
  landslides, tsunamis, avalanches, fires and flash floods.

  The greatest likelihood of major earthquakes is in the western United
  States, particularly along the San Andreas Fault in California and up
  the Alaskan Coast, in the New Madrid Fault Zone in the Midwest, and
  in a few pockets on the East Coast, particularly in South Carolina
  and New England.  There is no seasonal or yearly cycle of
  occurrence.  Earthquakes can happen at any time.  Major earthquakes
  appear to occur in cycles of between 50 and 275 years.




		 How Earthquakes are Measured



  The Richter Scale provides a measure of the magnitude of the
  earthquake in terms of energy released, measured in equivalent tons
  of TNT.  Each unit represents a 10-fold energy release.

  An earthquake of Richter 2.5 or less is usually ignored.  Dishes
  rattling and china shaking occur at 3.  The Modified Mercalli
  Intensity Scale is a more subjective accounting or survey of behavior
  and damage based on observation at the site.  Depending on the
  intensity of ground vibrations, the elasticity of buildings and
  structures, and how well structures are connected to their
  foundation, falling or collapsing objects and structures accompany
  earthquakes.  Structural instability, such as dam failures, can
  trigger flash floods.  Fires have been the greatest cause of damage
  in the past.  Offshore earthquakes may cause tsunamis.


		 Preparing for an Earthquake


  In addition to precautions outlined in the sections on General Family
  Preparedness, Residential Fires and Hazardous Material Accidents, you
  need to take the following steps.

  1. Become familiar with earthquake terms.

    Aftershocks: Tremors that occur in
       the hours or days after the initial earthquake shaking is over.

    Epicenter: The place on the surface
       of the earth directly above an earthquake's first movement
       (focus).

    Fault: A fracture in the earth's
       crust along which rocks have been displaced.

    Focus: The point beneath the
       surface of the earth where the rocks first break and move,
       beginning the earthquake.

    Intensity: An indication of an
       earthquake's apparent severity at a specific location, based on
       its effects on people and structures.

    Magnitude: Size of an earthquake
       determined from the size of the seismic waves it generates as
       recorded by seismographs.

    Mercalli Scale: The scale used to
       measure the strength of an earth- quake as determined by
       people's eyewitness observations.

    Tidal wave: This is a misnomer for
       a tsunami.  Tidal waves occur from the interaction of the moon
       and large bodies of water.  Waves you see rolling into the ocean
       shore every day are tidal waves.  Tsunami: A seismic sea wave.
    An
       unusually large wave (or series of them) produced by an undersea
       earthquake or volcanic eruption.

  2.  Safeguard your home by:

    Bolting bookshelves, water heaters
       and cabinets to wall studs.

    Anchoring things so that they will
       not move or fall during an earthquake is the most important
       thing you can do to make yourself safe.  Keeping things in place
       also means they will not break.

  3. There are many ways to make the
       contents of your home and workplace less hazardous.

    Move cabinets and tall furniture so
       that if they fall they are not likely to hit people.

    Use steel angle brackets to anchor
       them to studs in the wall.

    Put heavy or breakable things on
       bottom shelves.  You can even put "fences" or restraining wires
       to keep items from falling off open shelves.

    Put child-proof or swing-hook
       latches on bathroom and kitchen cabinets.  At work, put strong
       latches on cabinets where hazardous items are stored.

    Use screw-eyes or tongue-in-groove hangers to mount mirrors or
       pictures instead of hanging them on nails.

    Be sure that ceiling fans and light
       fixtures are well anchored or have earthquake safety wiring.

		      (continued next page) Preparing for an Earthquake
			 (continued)


    Anchor typewriters, computers,
       televisions, stereos and like items with heavy duty Velcro, at
       home and at work.

    Strap your water heater to anchor it
       to wall studs.  You can buy metal strapping, called plumber's
       tape or strap iron, in hardware stores.  Use it to strap the
       heater at the top and bottom.  This not only preserves your best
       source of
	  water but also significantly reduces
	    the fire hazard in your home by preventing a broken gas
	    line.

    Do not assume that anything is too
       heavy to move in an earthquake.  When the ground is going up and
       down in waves, it bounces even the heaviest equipment into the
       air.




		     During an Earthquake


  1. Get under a heavy table or desk and hold
       on, or sit or stand against an inside wall.

  2. Keep away from windows.

  3. If indoors, stay indoors.

  4. If outdoors, stay outdoors away from
       falling debris, trees and power lines.  5. If in a car, stay in
  the car.

  6. Many injuries occur when people act on
       their impulse to run.  Train yourself to take cover where you
       are.


  Notes:

       Responses Inside Buildings During an Earthquake


  For most of us the biggest danger in an earthquake is not from a
  building collapsing, but from things inside the building falling or
  flying around while the building is shaking.

  Hazards found inside buildings include overhead lights, ceiling
  tiles, cabinets, windows, furniture and equipment.

  If an earthquake happens, the best thing to do is:

  1. Drop, cover, and hold on.

    Get under a table.

    If there are no tables, get under or
       down between rows of chairs or against inner walls.  2. Do not
  stand in a doorway.  Buildings
       today have so much partitioning, much of which is temporary,
       that many doorways are actually weak points.  Doorways are not a
       good solution in a group situation either.

  3. If you have nothing to get under, sit
       down against an interior wall or next to a chair, holding on if
       possible.

  4. If you are in bed, it's best to stay there,
       hold on, and pull the pillows over your head for protection.

  5. If children are in another room, take
       cover in the closest safe place and call to them to do the
       same.

     Children will need you alive and unhurt
       after the earthquake.  Avoid the urge to run to protect your
       children, as that puts you in more danger of being hurt or
       injured.




      Responses if You are Outside During an Earthquake


  1. Outside, get away from buildings, walls,
       trees and power lines.

    If you cannot get clear of hazards,
       getting back inside a building is better than staying on the
       sidewalk.

    Sidewalks next to buildings are
       among the worst places to be.  2. In a car, ease off the
  accelerator and
       slow down carefully.  Do not stop on or under overpasses and
       bridges if you can avoid them.  Be aware of what traffic around
       you is doing and act accordingly.

  3. If you live in coastal areas, be aware of
       possible tsunamis.


    Notes:
		     After an Earthquake


  1. Take basic precautions immediately after
       an earthquake.  In addition to those outlined in the General
       Family Preparedness, Residential Fires and Hazardous Materials
       Accidents sections you should:

     Expect aftershocks.

    Avoid using vehicles except in
       emergencies.

  2. Check yourself for injuries and protect
       yourself by putting on shoes, work gloves and any other
       protective gear at hand.

  3. If the electricity is off, turn on a
       flashlight.

  4. Once you are sure that you're all right,
       check the people around you for injuries.

    You might ask loudly, "Is everyone
       okay?"  This will also help calm people.  The types of injuries
    that happen
       most often in an earthquake include cuts, bruises, fractures and
       physiological shock.

  5. Check the entire building for structural
       damage and chemical spills.  Refer to the section on Hazardous
       Materials Accidents for further response information.

     Check chimneys for cracks and damage.
       The initial check should be made from a distance.  Have a
       professional inspect the chimney for internal damage that could
       lead to fire.

  6. Right after an earthquake, hang up your
       phone.  If the receivers are shaken off the hooks, these lines
       register as "open" in the system and it overloads.  You can help
       restore telephone service by hanging up your phone.


  Notes:

      Special Considerations for Agricultural Producers




  In addition to the precautions and responses covered in the previous
  pages, the agricultural producer should consider the following
  measures.

  1. Immediately after an earthquake, animals will react with great
  fear.  Animals, including
       cats and dogs, that are usually docile and accustomed to humans,
       may react violently.  They may bite, scratch or run at you.

  2. Earthquake aftershocks compound the problem of caring for animals
  right after an
       earthquake.  Aftershocks are quite frequent after large
       earthquakes, and further increase the fear and skittish
       reactions of animals.

  3. The best thing to do for animals after an earthquake is to get
  them out in the open, to
       open pasture or rangeland.  Let the animals run free.  Do not
       attempt to rope or chain large animals such as cows and horses
       because they may injure or kill themselves if an aftershock
       occurs and they try to run.

  4. Get animals out of barns or buildings that may have been damaged
  in an earthquake.
       Barns are especially susceptible to earthquake damage.  Large
       beams and rafters may not be well secured, thus making the barn
       subject to collapse during aftershocks.

    Hay bales and large equipment may be tossed around and come
    tumbling down on
       animals and people inside barns.

    Immediately open the doors and let the animals out.  It's easier to
    recover a live
       animal than replace a dead one.

  5. Ensure that mechanical equipment has not been turned over or
  damaged.  If there is
       danger of electrical shock, turn off the main electrical circuit
       breaker or fuse.  If you smell gas or suspect a gas leak, turn
       off the main valve.

  6. Check fence lines and posts.  You may need to build a make-shift
  yard from temporary
       posts and fencing.  Then repair/rebuild the regular fencing, and
       open the temporary yard when completed.

  7. If animal carcasses need to be disposed of refer to the General
  Family Preparedness,
       Special Post-Disaster Considerations section for appropriate
       handling.


    Notes:                   Residential Fires



   Residential Fires . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
      Fire Safety and Prevention . . . . . . . . . . 59 What to Do in
      Case of a Fire . . . . . . . . . 60 What to Do After a Fire. . .
      . . . . . . . . . 61





		      Residential Fires




  Fire safety and prevention are important for everyday emergencies,
  but they are crucial during disasters.  More than 6,000 Americans die
  and 100,000 more are injured by fires each year.  Fire spreads
  quickly.  A fire's heat is more dangerous than the flames; inhaling
  super hot air can sear your lungs.  Fires produce poisonous gases
  that make you drowsy and disoriented.  In addition to those measures
  outlined in the General Family Preparedness section, the following
  fire specific measures should be followed.










		  Fire Safety and Prevention


  1. Install smoke detectors in your house or
       apartment.

    Place detectors on every level of
       your house:  -  outside bedrooms -  at the top of open stairways
       or the
	    bottom of enclosed stairs -  near (but not in) the
       kitchen.

	 Clean smoke detectors regularly
	    and replace batteries once a year.

  2. Plan escape routes with your family.
       See the General Family Preparedness section of the Handbook.

  3. Clean out storage areas.  Don't let trash
       accumulate.

  4. Check electrical wiring.

	 Inspect extension cords for frayed
	    or exposed wires or loose plugs.

	 Do not overload extension cords or
	    outlets.

  5. Never use gasoline, benzine, naptha or
       similar liquids indoors.

	 Never smoke near these flammable
	    liquids.

	 Safely discard all rags or materials
	    soaked in flammable material after use.
  6. Check heating sources.  Make sure they
       are clean and in working order.

  7. Alternative heating sources such as
       wood, coal and kerosene should be used carefully.

  8. Make sure that home insulation is not in
       contact with electrical wiring.

  9. Know where your gas meter and central
       electrical panels are so you can shut them off in an emergency.
       If you shut off your gas line, allow only a gas company
       representative to turn it on again to make sure it is done
       properly.

  10.     Ask your local fire department to inspect
	    your house for fire safety and prevention.

  11.     If you live in wildland areas, your house
	    could be a target for wildfire.

	 Call local authorities and get
	    information about wildfires in your area.

	 Do not install an untreated wood
	    shake roof.

	 Make your landscape fire safe by
	    removing excess brush and undergrowth, planting fire
	    resistant plants, and pruning trees of low branches.


    Notes:
		 What to Do in Case of a Fire


  1. To put out a small fire, take away its air
       or fuel, or cool it with water or fire extinguishing chemicals.

  2. Never use water on an electrical fire.
       Use only a fire extinguisher.

  3. Oil and grease fires occur primarily in
       the kitchen.  Smother the flames with baking soda or salt or put
       a lid over the flame if it is burning in a pan.

  4. Small fires can be controlled with water
       or fire extinguishers, but do not try to put out a fire which is
       getting out of control.

  5. If your clothes catch on fire, stop, drop
       and roll until the fire is extinguished.  Running only makes the
       fire burn faster.  6. Sleep with your door closed.  If you
       wake up to the sound of a smoke detector, feel the door before
       you open it.

	 If the door is cool, leave
	    immediately.  Be prepared to bend low or crawl.  Smoke and
	    heat rise, and the air is cooler near the floor.

	 If the door is hot, escape through a
	    window.  If you cannot escape, hang a white or
	    light-colored sheet outside the window to alert fire
	    fighters of your presence.


  Notes:

		   What to Do After a Fire


  1. Contact your insurance agent about
       estimates and loss coverage.

  2. Do not enter a fire-damaged building
       unless authorities have given you permission.

  3. When entering a building, be watchful
       for signs of heat or smoke because they may be signs of
       smoldering remains of fire.

  4. Have an electrician check your
       household wiring before the current is turned back on.  Do not
       attempt to reconnect any utilities yourself.

  5. Beware of structural damage.  Roofs and
       floors may be weakened and need repair.  6. Discard food,
  beverages and medicines
       that have been exposed to heat, smoke or soot.

  7. If you have a safe or strong box, do not
       try to open it.  A safe or fire proof box can hold intense heat
       for several hours.  If the door is opened before the box is
       cooled, the entering air combined with the high internal
       temperature may cause the contents to burst into flames.

  Refer also to the General Family Preparedness section.


    Notes:                         Floods



   Floods. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62
      Preparing for Floods and Flash Floods. . . . . 63 Building Dikes
      To Prevent Minor Surface Flooding 64 Preventing Leaks in
      Basements. . . . . . . . . 65 Cleaning Up After a Flood Setting
      Priorities . 67 Salvaging Sewing Machines and Sergers. . . . . 68
      Cleaning Flood-soiled Pillows and Mattresses . 69 Cleaning
      Flood-soiled Blankets, Quilts, Comforters, Linens 72 Restoring
      Electrical Service After a Flood . . 74 Flooded Gardens. . . . .
      . . . . . . . . . . . 76 Checking Flood-damaged Buildings . . . .
      . . . 77 Cleaning and Repairing Flooded Basements . . . 79
      Finding and Repairing Leaks in Roofs . . . . . 81 Controlling
      Rodents After Floods . . . . . . . 82 Controlling Insects After
      Floods . . . . . . . 83 Special Considerations for Agricultural
      Producers 84
	 Preparing For a Flood or Flash Flood on Your Farm or Ranch 84
	 Protecting Livestock During a Flood . . . . 84 Preparing to
	 Evacuate Your Farm . . . . . . 85 Safety Rules for Farm
	 Clean-up. . . . . . . 86




			    Floods





  Floods are the most common and widespread of all natural hazards.
  Some floods develop over a period of days, but flash floods can
  result in raging waters in just